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Re: Check out this link

9/29/2005 3:32 PM
Re: Check out this link
I am a librarian by education. I'm very familiar with the huge, green, multi-volume paper edition of the Thomas Register :)  
That's why I registered for the online version.  
9/27/2005 7:16 PM
John Kelley Brown
Re: Source for Fender board material?
Thanks Joe,  
That looks like the stuff, but they don't look like they would sell to the hobbiest. I was able to place an order through PPC at the bottom of this page: Otherwise my brother was going to be wondering why there was tube amp eyelet sized rectangles cut out of his drum road cases. :-D  
BTW Joe, how do I contact Mr. Delft for a handwound 20 watt OT?  
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9/27/2005 5:57 PM
John Kelley Brown

I contacted Accurate Conversion referenced from the paper in your zip file, here's what their reply was:  
"J. Kelley Brown, we do not carry any Black Fishpaper and there are high minimums to order if we order some. We do carry Brown Fishpaper but it comes in 100 Ft Rolls and we have a minimum order of $100. Thanks Tom"  
However, I did manage after a lot of searching to find some fishpaper in black and was able to order a custom size, I went for a 24" x 24" piece .062 thick. Here's the URL:  
I guess they use sardines for the cheep stuff and Mahi Mahi or a fine cut of salmon for the better fishpaper.  
9/27/2005 3:40 PM
Smitty Oliner Vulcanex Fibre Board
.062" Black Vulcanex Fibre 51" x 84"  
Part # VFS0062B51084  
I use it in the Blueverb. Great stuff. I use Ted Weber's person to laser cut the boards.  
I think Ted is offering it on his custom fibre board since I began using it. Not the same stuff as he uses in his kits.
9/27/2005 10:13 PM
Steve A.

    Thanks for posting the part number and price. I believe that there would be a hefty shipping charge transporting the 51" x 84" sheet from NJ to CA so a person might want to have Oliner cut it down into a few smaller sheets- any suggestions for the cuts?  
    My source sent me some pieces of grey fishpaper from the Colorado distributor back about 5 or 6 years ago. I was disappointed at first that it was grey and not black (like Fender!) but he explained that the black fishpaper was more likely to become conductive in high humidity. Remember that guitar amp circuits are of much higher resistance than more mundane electrical products; the 3M pot used in vibrato circuits could be swamped by a 5M leakage between two eyelets. I found the grey materiak especially handy for drawing on... you can sketch out your design right on the material itself; with black it would be harder to see your writing.  
    Some people think that fishpaper is perfect for one-off projects and prototypes. If you are going to go into production it would probably be better to use a thicker eyelet board or a printed circuit board.  
Steve Ahola
9/28/2005 10:29 PM
The $72 included cutting it down to 12" x 24" pieces to fit on the laser table. Freight to IN was $23.45.  
Yes, I am a little worried that it will become conductive over time, that's why I went with the best stuff I could find. I'm not wedded to this product, so if there's something better, but just as durable, I'm all ears. I can say, though, that it laser cuts pretty well. I was able to specify pretty close tolerances.  
The main reason I'm using it is to emulate Leo. I think that the mid-sixties Fender was the zenith of amplifier build quality.  
From a road abuse perspective seems like vulcanized fibre can really take some abuse. You can also solder on it all day and night and not really screw it up too bad. I've never heard of an eyelet going bad.  
I really like that, for the most part, you can plug into an amp that is forty or fifty years old and it still sounds pretty good...after change e'ltics, of course. Hard to 'test' other stuff against what Leo already has demonstrated to us over such a long period of time.  
Do you have anymore info on the grey fishpaper stuff? I don't care if it's pink. If it works better, I'd like to try it.  
Perhaps Ted would be willing to weigh in on the subject. I think he uses ESPE vulcanized fibre for his kits, but I could be wrong. I think they make fishpaper, too. He might know if their fishpaper was good for eyelet boards.  
9/30/2005 12:51 PM
Steve A.

Do you have anymore info on the grey fishpaper stuff? I don't care if it's pink. If it works better, I'd like to try it.  
    I could mail you a small piece if you want to test it out for conductivity, etc. Send me an email with a snail address and I'll put a small piece in an envelope for me.  
    I would check with my e-buddy who sent it to me but I haven't been able to reach him by email for a few years now. :(  
You can also solder on it all day and night and not really screw it up too bad. I've never heard of an eyelet going bad.  
    Well, if the hole is oversized and the eyelet not spiked properly, it can spin around or even fall out. As for the spinning around once you solder the leads it won't go anywhere. In a worst case scenario you could always add another eyelet.  
    I think that using fishpaper can result in lower noise because you screw it directly to the chassis (with a blank piece underneath for insulation).  
    FWIW this is what Dan Torres uses:  
These boards are non-conductive fiberboard with a black phenolic coating on the top and bottom. 2.5 in by 14 in by 1/16 in thick.  
The phenolic coating makes them still more non-conductive, drills and cuts very nicely, and prevents the boards from warping.  
Steve Ahola  
P.S. So what is everybody using to cut their fishpaper? I found that tin snips work the best for me... actually something like this:  
    The only problem is cutting exact right angles by hand. When ordering the stuff I would recommend having it cut into the widths that you would expect to use- maybe 2 1/2" or 3"?
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