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Want to get a desoldering tool...

5/13/2004 12:47 AM
stan bailey
Want to get a desoldering tool...
Looking at the Hako one for $150.00  
Are these any good? If not, can anyone recommend a decent one that's not too pricey?  
5/13/2004 5:57 AM

Never tried that one, but I see the brand in catalogs a lot. I use Pace equipment myself, but mine is about a $600 unit. Get a catalog from Jensen and TechniTool, even if you don't buy from them, they have a good range of product available to see what is out there. Weller makes them too.
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5/13/2004 6:27 AM
Stan Bailey

Yeah, I have the Jensen catalog. A lot of good stuff in there. But if I remember correctly, the cheapest desoldering tool is like 4 bills?  
I have an SVT Pro 4 on my bench with channel A gone. (10 shorted Mosfets!)  
I managed to get them out using my iron, and a rat shack solder sucker without lifting any traces. But It's time to get up to par with my equipment. Maybe I will drop that much money for one. I'm sure it will save me from a lot of grief. Not to mention the obscenities that spew from my mouth as I strip wire to replace the pad that got lifted :)  
Thanks, Enzo.  
5/13/2004 11:38 PM

SOme tips, Stan. I have a good desolder station, but sometimes I reach for the hand sucker. I have a no name metal sucker, cock it and push the button. It works. The red rubber bulbs are useless in my opinion.  
When clearing solder it is sometimes better to add solder first - kinda like wetting a sponge makes it pick up better. The frresh solder helps get all the old solder melting by conducting heat better. Plus it fills the gaps.  
SOmetimes when removing parts with legs like those FETs, it is easier, or at least more effective, to clip the legs off the body of the part and toss it. Then grip each leg with needle nose and heat the joint and pull out the leg and then suck the solder from the now leg-free hole.  
Before I got my desolder station, I used to change out DIP ICs that way: clip off the legs, extract them, then clean the holes.  
SOmetimes pads come up, but usually it is because we pull out the old part while it is not fully free of the solderwork. WHen the solder is not flowing frreely, we wind up keeping heat on the joint longer and the pad glue fails.
5/18/2004 5:40 AM
Stan Bailey

Thanks, Enzo!  
5/19/2004 6:54 AM
Stan Bailey
one more tip...
Thought I'd ad one more tip to Enzo's solder sucker tutorial :)...  
When using a solder braid, dowse it with some thinned out flux. The solder flows to the braid like water to a sponge.  
5/22/2004 6:50 PM

The braid I use is (supposed to be) dipped in flux when made. The problem is when it gets old and dries out. Also when I clip it off I leave a bit of the solder at the end. This seems to get it going quicker.  
I find it works great for things like cleaning off parts or traces etc. Also makes a nice flexi-jumper for broken traces etc. as you can get it in different widths.
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