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Minwax Polyshades Drying Time

9/3/2003 6:04 PM
Minwax Polyshades Drying Time
I'm using Minwax Polyshades Honey Pine Glossy and Mineral spirits cut 50/50. I've put 3 coats on the tweed in 24 hours, starting thin, and put one on last night a little thicker. I'm very careful and do a very consistant and even job.  
The humidity has been near 100 percent here for the last few days, and I expect more of it. But my concern is that my tweed is going to continue to look like it is now. It looks wet, splotchy, with some areas that seemed to soak up a little more than others. It is still somewhat tacky and not glossy at all.  
I hope that when it dries this ugly appearance goes away. According to the Minwax can, this bad boy should be dry by now. I've read from someplaces that it wasn't necessary to use Mineral Spirits, but then I heard here that it was to get an even coat.  
I know poly takes a LONG time to dry but I wonder if I've done the wrong thing by staining the tweed. Anyone else been in the same place, have any words of wisdom for me?  
9/3/2003 8:13 PM
Cutting the Minwax Polyshades with mineral spirits may have aggrevated your drying problem. Minwax specifically recommends against it. With 100 percent humidity you may be looking at drying times of a week or longer. I've used the Polyshades with good results, but I do not add mineral spirits. I use the finish straight from the can.  
Applying three coats within 24 hours is too much, especially considering your drying conditions. Your best course of action would be to allow the cabinet to dry for at least two or three weeks before trying something else.
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9/4/2003 2:03 AM
Al Lang

Owen, This question is in my field (I'm a cabinet maker by trade). Yes, you did screw up, three coats is way too much, too fast, especially in sticky weather. The thinner definitely aggravated your problem, "swingin little guitarman" was right on the money. Leave the cabinet sit somewere to dry and I mean dry. This might take awhile, I don't know about three weeks. When dry your blotchy problem will probably still be there, maybe not. You have a few choices, leave the cab the way it turns out, try to remove the finish taking a chance that you will have an even blotcher cabinet (but also a chance to do it right) or have a distressed cabinet. This is a tough problem. If you can live with the blotches and want to conseal them a little, you could put amber shellac on the cabinet. Cut this 50/50 w/denatured alcohol as someone states in an answer a few weeks a ago (see back in the forum, the way you should have done the cabinet). You could try to strip the ployurathane off and start over the right way. If the stripper ruins the tweed, you would definitly have a distressed cabinet. I'm not sure what the stripper would do besides take the poly off...? I've never stipped a tweed cabinet, anybody out there know? It might clean up the cabinet enough that after you redo it the right way, you won't see the blotches. I guess if it were my cabinet and I wanted a non-distressed cab and couldn't live with the way it turned out when dry, I'd "test" the stripper on the bottom where you'd never see. After you use the stripper (be careful not to get it on the sides) use thinner to clean all the stripper off. It will probably look blotchy but I think when it dries you'll be good to go. After 100% dry over night in a dry area, you can use the method in this forum to do the bottom the right way, after dry see what you think. If satisfied, do the whole cab this way. The right way is a 50/50% amber schellac and denatured alcohol, brushed on, about three coats letting dry 100% between coats, read the instructions on the can. Home Depot sells amber schellac. See below for detailed info. I never tried to strip a tweed cabinet but I did put too many coats of schellac on my tweed and was too dark for me. I washed the cabinet with denatured alcohol (messy job) and removed all the schellac and started over, the cab turned out perfect with no blotches. Good luck. One more thought, not sure if the stripper would loosen the glue on the tweed, so if the bottom turns out OK and you decide to do the rest, go slow, small area's at a time and keep the stripper of the seams as much as possible. If the tweed comes loose, you might have to reglue parts. Alway better to be sure on a project before you start but at least you won't electrocute yourself. Al
9/3/2003 11:20 PM
Bruce /Mission Amps

When or where does Minwax specifically recommend not using mineral spirits as a thinner for the polyshade products? I know that can says thinning isn't recommended but I'm sure that's so a "do it yourselfer" won't have a thin runny finish on his resurfaced table top... or whatever the current project is.  
As far as I know, mineral sprits is the the solvent for this stuff.  
Out here the normal humidity is well under 25% most of the time and I've not had this problem, but, I've always waited a day or two between any thinned coats too.  
9/4/2003 2:22 AM

Thanks for all the input, and Bruce, thanks for backing me up. I was kind of on your wavelength, but coating when the tweed was dry to the touch. I heard people were having the same problems with the Bullseye, blushing, etc. I thought I would bypass that stuff with the poly, even though it takes longer to dry.  
And for the record, I think tech forums like this can be awesome as long as there is room for non-professionals. I posted something about polarity a week ago, and someone replied that I should take an electronics course. And now, I'm getting pearls like, "make sure you know your project before you start out" and "you really screwed up". C'mon guys.  
Lots of us are just hobbyists looking for the assitance of upperclassmen, no need to get territorial, we won't be threatening your jobs, rather it seems a lot of us are giving you our money.  
And as for my situation, it seems to be resolving itself slowly but surely, despite all the rain.
9/4/2003 2:54 AM
Al Lang

Owen, Sorry about telling you to take an electronic course. I didn't mean to offend you, shute, I could use a course. I think your cabinet will turn out OK when it dries. Al Lang
9/4/2003 2:47 AM
Al Lang

Your right, minerial spirits is the solvent for polyurthane or polyshade. Hope my info didn't seem like I was saying it wasn't. I was just saying that cutting the poly 50/50 slowed the drying time more and with 90% humidity a coat brushed on, would take over 24 hours to dry. Owen put three coats on in 24 hours, he recoated over previous undried coats. I really think if he leaves the cabinet alone to dry, all the blotches will disapear when the finish dries. I've had problems with lacquer and high humidity trapping moisture and turning white but I use an additive to slow the drying time down and better flow, too. For some reason mineral spirits slows the drying of polyurthane especially if brushed on. Al
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