ampage
Tube Amps / Music Electronics
For current discussions, please visit Music Electronics Forum. New: view Recent Searches.
New: visit Schematic Hell!
The sunn still shines online!

 
Listen to great tunes streaming live right now!

ampage archive

Vintage threads from the first ten years

Search for:  Mode:  

Pot Holes


 
10/20/2000 6:28 PM
Matthew Springer
email
Pot Holes
No not the kind in poorly maintained streets, but those ones you drill in the chassis.  
 
 
 
What is the standard size? It looks like 3/8" for both pots and jacks. Is a stepper drill bit the easiest thing to use? Or just buy one good drill bit for 3/8"?  
 
 
 
-matthew
 
10/20/2000 7:43 PM
Jim Jones
email

Hey Matthew,  
 
 
 
I use 3/8" for pretty much everything. All I have is a hand drill and I'm sick of triangular crappy looking holes. Next time I'm going with a Unibit. Beautifully round holes everytime.  
 
 
 
Jim
 
 
  Tuesday
Book Of The Day The Ultimate Tone, Volume III by Kevin O'Connor
Have you ever wondered if there is a better way to build a Bassman, Champ, Plexi, an 800, AC-30, Bulldog or Portaflex? Or you wanted to build an SVT with off-the-shelf parts? How about a master-volume amp that doesn’t change tone with the master setting? Everything you need to know is right here, including: proper grounding techniques, wiring methods, and mechanical considerations. Eighteen chapters cover the “iconic” amps everyone knows and loves, with schematics and layouts for each, along with the technical history of the product. Eyelet-board and chassis-mounted tube socket construction is used throughout, for easy servicing and modding. TUT3 is very accessible even if you cannot fully read a schematic and is a "must have" if you are going to build an amp for your self.

Note: The Ampage Archive is an Amazon Associate site. A small commission is paid to the site owner on any qualified purchase made after clicking an associate link such as the one above.
 
10/20/2000 8:07 PM
Bryan James
email

yes 3/8" don't forget if you use a drill bit to clamp a piece of wood behind the metal so you drill into the metal then into the wood. though messy and a pain will give you round holes each time. if you use a steper bit i found it easier to drill pilot holes first then use the steper bit. goes much faster.  
 
 
 
Bryan
 
10/20/2000 9:04 PM
jrem
email

You get triangular shaped holes because your drill bit isn't set up for sheet metal. You are using the standard rake bit.  
 
 
 
Go look at those drill bits that are sharpened like a wood bit, i.e., they have a narrow web point in the center, are flat until the edge, and then have a small 'lip' for an edge. This is an old sheet-metal mechanic's trick that Black & Decker patented (jeesh, they'll run a patent on anything, I guess).  
 
 
 
What happens is that the outside edge breaks through the sheet metal creating a little 'doughnut' that you've just plugged. This is instead of your standard bit that starts in the center and works it's way out, to the point where the drill bit grabs, and spins the chassis all over the place . . .  
 
 
 
Good luck, let me know if you need any pictures or drawings of what I'm trying to describe. I made mine myself with standard high-speed drill bits and a dressing wheel/grinder. Have the standard sizes, i.e., 5/16", 3/8", 7/16", and 1/2". They work great and leave round holes . . . jrem.
 
   Page 1 of 1