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|6/5/1999 3:00 PM|
OK, I called the local store... they had a used TBX control that they removed because "usually people want them out because it makes the guitar tinny sounding".
When I went to pick it up, they told me it was like a regular tone pot from 0-5 and from the detent up it boosts the mids giving you a fatter tone.
What I heard was "less" tone control (with a .014 cap) then my standard 250K tone pot when rolled down. Less highs overall - yes, even when the TBX was on 10. Could be my imagination....
Also, an overall perceived lack of "punch".
I know, I know, it could be my imagination but when I put in the original 250K pot, the guitar sounded snappy and great again.
Yes, I did carefully measure and use the same type of capacitors.
|6/5/1999 11:27 PM|
It is interesting the different ways salepeople describe what a TBX does! < g >
BTW is your volume pot 500k or 250k? There was a long thread between Doc and me awhile back computing the math for a TBX control and my conclusion was that a TBX will load down the signal more than a regular tone control; by using a 500k pot instead of a 250k pot (normally recommended for sc pu's) the resulting load to ground is much less.
Thanks for posting your observations! I was "schnookered" by the Torres Advanced Midrange Control for over a year before I finally figured out that it was swallowing up a lot of the signal from my pickups even in the "neutral" position. It's not too easy to make quick A/B tests on a strat, but it just occurred to me that a TBX could be tested outside of the guitar just to see how much it is loading down the signal. I have a spare TBX pot or two that I could wire up one of these days and I'll let you what I find!
P.S. I assume that you did doublecheck to make sure that the TBX was wired correctly (since it was used).
|Book Of The Day||
The Ultimate Tone, Volume III by Kevin O'Connor
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|6/6/1999 2:38 AM|
Actually I believe it is wired correctly but I am not sure. Since I have a single master tone, I put the TBX in place of that one.
Anyway, I'm going to put a push pot and when it's switched, it will put in the bridge pickup to whatever is there.
That way I can get neck+bridge, neck+bridge+middle etc...
I will see how it goes.
|6/6/1999 3:12 AM|
Unless you are really crazy about your bridge pu, I'd suggest that you have the switch add the neck pickup to whatever the selector switch is set to. That way you get the great sounds of the neck and the neck/middle notch (twice!) along with the neck/bridge for brighter sounds and all 3 pu's together for a very "quacky" effect. All without having to toggle the push-pull pot. With those 4 killer linkages you don't have to worry about setting the selector switch to a bad setting! Although I've put the Sup'rStrat harness (9 linkages!) in my two favorite strats, I could live with those 4 linkages I just listed. (With my Sup'rStrats, I'd have to say that I use one of those 4 linkages at least 95% of the time.)
P.S. I posted a PDF file on my site (from Dave Harris) which shows how he uses a modded pot to blend in the bridge pickup with whatever the selector switch is set to. You mod the pot by taking it apart and cutting a small section of the resistive material.
My preference would be to cut the CCW end of the pot, but Dave mentioned that he automatically sets guitar pots to 10 so he cut the CW end. (With the cut at the CCW end, the blend mix would go down to almost nothing and then cut out completely for a full bypass of the pot). And as mentioned above I'd wire it up so that it blended in the neck pickup. But that might depend on the actual guitar and pu's; if the guitar was overly dark you might want to be able to mix in some of the bridge pickup to brighten things up a bit.
|6/6/1999 4:37 PM|
I don't understand what the difference is between adding the neck vs. bridge..?
I mean, if I am on the neck pickup, I hit the switch and get the neck+bridge. If I am on the neck+middle, I get neck+middle+bridge.
>All without having to toggle the push-pull pot.
How can I do this without toggling the switch on the push pot?
The Yamaha switch is two sets of 4 lugs.
It is pre-wired to do:
1 = neck (lug 1 + lug 4)
2 = neck+middle (lug 1+2+4)
3 = middle (lug 2 + 4)
4 = middle+bridge (lug 2+3+4)
5 = bridge (lug 3 + 4)
The 2nd set of 4 lugs are unused but basically mirrors the first.
Is this the normal switch configuration for 5 position switches?
Plus, I only have one master volume and one master pot.
|6/7/1999 7:15 PM|
Although you can get the same combinations whether adding in the bridge or the neck pickup, the main difference is just in the "user interface". At least on my strat I can flick the 5 way selector switch a lot faster than I can pull up the knob on the p-p pot (especially without dropping the pick!).
It is also very easy to accidentally push in a p-p pot that is pulled out so if I had a choice I'd have my favorite linkages selected with the p-p pot down and the alternate linkages selected with the p-p pot up. (I try to "idiot-proof" my guitars as much as possible, in case Murphy stops by with his law...)
|6/7/1999 11:50 PM|
As you know by now, I just went ahead and wired my guitar for the Sup'r Strat.
unfortunately I forgot to put in the anti-shock circuit
I will have to open it yet again.....
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