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Ya Butt!

6/2/1999 10:02 PM
Ya Butt!
I thought the choke value was no big deal thanks for conferming that.  
I am still out in deliberation on the LP wiring it's such a bitch i only want to do it one time.  
What's the diffrence between a series and a parallel HB? I don't know how it'll sound but like the S/P switching i have between all my S/C's.  
Funny you should bring-up the USS Texas ( i first typed ASS Texas think there's any depth to that error).  
The door handle broke last week and i am trying to get the panel off to access the latch i have a book and it states remove all hidden screws and i havn't found them all yet.  
It's getting hot down here kinda like winter for you.  
Thanks Mark hope you and yours are all doing well.  
Henri M.
6/3/1999 4:20 PM
Mark Hammer

"Remove all hidden screws"  
Is there a picture to accompany that comment from the car company, or did they figure a fella needs at least one good wild goose chase a year to stay sane?  
I was thinking about your LP last night, and realized that my advice was just plain dumb, or at least awkward, given the layout of the wiring paths in those things (one of the reasons you see a lot more mod kits and projects for Strats than you do for LP's). In order to do any of the fancy coil-switching stuff, and still use the toggle switch, you would have to run your pickup wires to the control cavity for the coil stuff, then run them back up to the neck toggle switch, then back down to the control cavity again for volume and tone control. I know you're a "sturdy" guy Henri, but all that crap stuffed into a Les Paul body starts to scream out "truss! somebody get me a damn truss!!"  
A better solution is to look into the Paul Reed Smith style rotary switch that Stewart-MacDonald sells. This will let you run your PU wires directly to the control cavity and leave 'em there. The PRS switch is a multi-pole rotary "megaswitch" that is intended to do a lot of the series-parallel-coil-cancelling stuff you want to do in a 2-bucker guitar, and will just pop into a pot-hole. I think it's a 6-position and is reasonably priced. PRS puts regular knobs on them, but you probably want a chicken-head knob for ease of switching and simply keeping track of where it is. I don't have the latest catalogue with me, but I think they come with a wiring diagram.  
Of course what this means is that your 3-way toggle on the top of the guitar becomes surplus, and that you've bought one push-pull pot too many. When I think of the aggravation of running the wiring all over the body as noted earlier, though, it's money well spent. Besides, the week of time it will save you can be spent looking for the other "hidden screws".  
If the rotary does all the coil stuff for you, what will you use the push-pulls for? The pots themselves should probably be 2-Vol plus Tone. I would suggest one Push-Pull switch for a "blow" switch (please, no Monica jokes) like Danelectro puts in their new guitars, to completely bypass all volume and tone - just PU's to output. You can use one  
to select-deselect a Fender style volume-compensation cap. If you hike up the value of the bypass cap (e.g., 1000-1500pf), then your volume control doubles as a low-cut control for about 40% of its rotation. This will get you thin sounds from the neck (or bridge) PU if you want. Depending on how many magic combos the rotary switch gets you, you may want to save the third P/P switch for adding to them, or use it to select between one of two tone-control circuits (e.g., high-cut vs mid-cut, or 2 different high-cut caps).  
The best feature of this is you can just push em in and have a normal guitar.  
Just a thought.  
I've never used them* but folks say that series-coils, and in particular, series pickups, produce meatier tones. Since pickups are just fancy-schmancy inductor coils with a magnet in the middle, sticking two end-to-end makes a higher value inductor (more coils from one end to the other, right?), which means that the resonance of the combination will be lower, so a bit gronkier. The series DC resistance of the coils will be higher so it will also load anything after them (controls, FX) differently. Finally, since the output of a pickup depends on the number of turns in the coil/s, series connections tend to be higher output. Put it all together and, all other things being equal, folks find themselves set up for easier overdrive in series mode.  
Family's fine. The older one now looks down at me and hands his clothes to me when they don't fit him any more. I'm scared of what he'll look like AFTER he's 13. He ain't musical but there will always be a place somewhere for a guy that can hoist SVT's or Kustom amps.  
Take care of yourself.  
*(Haven't had anything bucker-equipped for nigh on a decade, ever since some slimy bastard stole my late 50's Epiphone Sorrento; single-cutaway blond with oval fret markers and 3-screw name-plate removed, a trapeze tailpiece, gold Klusons, homemade tortoise-shell pickguard with creme binding, dual home-made buckers with creme mounting rings and smooth DiMarzio brass pickup covers, two volume controls and a mini-toggle PU selector between them. Send her home if you ever find her. I've never played a better neck.)
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6/4/1999 6:53 PM
Steve A.

    Do you have 4 dpdt p-p pots (with the long bushings to fit a LP or whatever you have)? If that is the case then you can use the Schector Superock harness I posted on my site (which I believe is what Gibson is using on their Jimmy Page model). The Superock is pretty cool, although I was going to revise the wiring so that you can get hum-cancelling linkages when you cut the coils.  
    The p-p switching works like this:  
Lead volume: puts the bridge pickup out of phase with the rhythm pickup and in single coil mode it will select which coil is used.  
Rhythm volume: switches the linkage from parallel (normal) to series, bypasses the selector switch and sets the RV pot as master volume for the guitar.  
Lead Tone: puts lead pickup in single coil mode.  
Rhythm Tone: puts rhythm pickup in single coil mode.  
    You were asking about series and parallel linkages. I'm not sure if you were referring to the linkage between the two humbuckers, or the linkage between the two coils of a single humbucker. Starting with a single hb, DiM had included the "Dual Sound" wiring diagram with their humbuckers at least 20 years ago; the "Dual Sound" uses a DPDT switch to toggle between the normal series linkage and an alternate parallel linkage (which they said would give you the sound of a single coil pickup without the noise...) Well, the pickups I tried it with didn't sound very great in the parallel mode (which I believe Gretch used on some of their hbs) although if you are looking for a very clean sound you might give it a try. With a LP you can try out different linkages without removing the strings; just desolder the pickup leads (after making a sketch!) and try clipping them together in different combinations. ("colorcod.htm" on my site shows the various colors used by many mfgs and the different linkages you can try.)  
    As for linking the two humbuckers together in series, you get a really loud and thick sound, which in many cases is not that usable. However, an out-of-phase series between two humbuckers produces a very "honky" sound and that linkage was used in the early PRS rotary switch models. If you split the coils and then link them in series, you can get some really great sounds (ala PRS) but I need to revise the wiring so that at least some of those linkages are hum-cancelling.  
Steve Ahola
6/5/1999 11:32 PM
Steve A.

    Here are two wiring diagrams for a modern version of the Schector Superock wiring harness. The first one uses the same linkages as the original Schector harness, while the second one selects the second coil from the rhythm pickup in the split coil mode so that it should be hum-cancelling when linked in-phase with the split coil lead pickup in both parallel and series linkages.  
Steve Ahola
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