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Re: super reverb silver vs black vs current production


 
12/28/1998 6:01 PM
Paul
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Re: super reverb silver vs black vs current production
Can you briefly describe each speakers sound?  
 
Thanks, Paul  
 
p.s. I had the amp work done at Skips Music in Sacramento, CA if anyone wants to know.
 
12/28/1998 3:11 PM
Paul
email

Mike:  
 
How can you tell the difference between the speakers mine just say "FENDER"?  
 
Paul
 
 
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12/28/1998 4:22 PM
Charles
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Manufacturer's code  
 
(now you're gonna ask for those right?)  
 
220 = Jensen  
328 = Utah  
465 = Oxford  
137 = CTS  
 
That's all I can remember without the list in front of me
 
12/28/1998 5:58 PM
Paul
email

I'm confused. There is a number on the sticker and it looks like there is a painted number under the sticker. Neigther number looks like the numbers in your reply. Let me go check what the numbers are...... The number on the sticker reads 06412. I can't read any of the painted numbers, but one looks like it ends with 07?  
 
Also, I have another question. Can you tell me why the tube is missing from what seems is the Recto (1st) slot?? The amp plays great. WTF??  
 
This amp has been in my family for it's life time, but dear-old-dad didn't take care of it. I took it in for service at a reputable shop two years ago. I just noticed the tube missing. Someone help!  
 
Paul
 
12/28/1998 7:59 PM
B. R.
email

Paul: Are you sure there's not another "1" at the end of that part number? The fender part # for a 10" alnico spkr from the late sixties/early seventies is 064121. This would be on the sticker, the actual manufacturers ID # would be stamped on the frame or under the sticker. If its a CTS brand spkr like mine it would start with "137" and then either have 3 or four digits after that, telling the year and week of manufacture.  
 
Bill R.
 
12/28/1998 11:03 PM
Charles
email

The manufacturer's number is probably not on the sticker, but painted (stamped) on the frame or magnet. The code goes something like this  
 
xxxyzz or xxxyyzz  
 
Where  
xxx=man. ID code  
 
yy=year or y=last character of the year, ie '65 is just 5  
 
zz=week  
 
In the case of yy or just y for the year designator, the single digit y leaves us to guess the decade based on other known items.  
 
As for the rectifier tube being missing. If it's gone, empty socket that is, the amp has been modified by the addition of diodes on the inside. There MAY be a plug in rectifier in there - usually a small item that looks like a tube base filled with epoxy on one end.  
 
FWIW, I wouldn't have changed the rectifier without first explaining the pros/cons of each type (SS vs Tube), and getting feedback from my customer.
 
12/28/1998 11:03 PM
Charles
email

The manufacturer's number is probably not on the sticker, but painted (stamped) on the frame or magnet. The code goes something like this  
 
xxxyzz or xxxyyzz  
 
Where  
xxx=man. ID code  
 
yy=year or y=last character of the year, ie '65 is just 5  
 
zz=week  
 
In the case of yy or just y for the year designator, the single digit y leaves us to guess the decade based on other known items.  
 
As for the rectifier tube being missing. If it's gone, empty socket that is, the amp has been modified by the addition of diodes on the inside. There MAY be a plug in rectifier in there - usually a small item that looks like a tube base filled with epoxy on one end.  
 
FWIW, I wouldn't have changed the rectifier without first explaining the pros/cons of each type (SS vs Tube), and getting feedback from my customer.
 
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