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| Joe Gwinn |
Re: Coil to string distance - is this important? On 5/9/2006 1:28 AM, Ken said:
[QUOTE]I'm trying to remember which store I saw the 'real' Fender style foam in, as usual the stuff only appears when you don't need it. I 'just' saw it too. It came in 25 foot or 50 foot rolls.[/QUOTE]Is it black? The good stuff is double-stick tape made with rubber (not urethane) foam, and is sold in auto parts stores for attaching trim to auto bodies. This tape is strong and weather proof, and will not revert. | |
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| Ken |
Yes, the foam strip I saw was EXACTLY the same as the foam Fender used. I've been racking my brain all day wondering where I saw it. It was black and 1/2 an inch wide too. Ken |
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| Ken |
Thank you all for the help... I reset up my Tele tonight with the correct pickup height, and it rocks! I remagnetized the P90 magnets while I was 'in there', and these hints made all the difference in the world. Ken |
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| Steve A. |
Remagnetizing bar magnets Ken said: I remagnetized the P90 magnets while I was 'in there'... Tell us more about remagnetizing bar magnets! I've only seen instructions for the alnico slugs... --Thanks! Steve Ahola |
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| Ken |
My poor Al2 magnets in my P90 was near death, so I rezapped them. It's fairly easy, you need a magnetizer of some type with both polepieces bigger than your magnet. The polepieces bigger than your magnet is an absolute must. If you don't have an electric remagnetizer, go to a auto speedometer repair shop if you have one locally, or a big hobby shop that has a slot car track. Either of these will usually have remagnetizing machines usable with alnico magnets. I think you might be able to use really big samarium cobalt or neo magnets too. Anyway, place the 'dead' magnet between the polepieces of your remagnetizer. The magnet will attract to the remagnetizer's polepieces and try to 'orient' itself in its original magnetic orientation. This is OK. Let it. Once the magnet is placed in the polepieces, move the polepieces together to hold the magnet between them and activate the remagnetizer for at least 45 seconds. I like to tap the magnet lightly with a brass hammer during remagnetization because I read once the shock waves in the magnet from the impacts helps the magnetic domains orient more evenly. When the time is up, remove the magnet from the magnetizer and enjoy. Now if I could just figure out how a 'Dunstunner' works... Ken |
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| Steve A. |
Ken: I haven't seen any Neo or SC bar magnets, but maybe you could make an array of button magnets??? So how old was the P-90 that you revitalized? Just wondering how soon mine might be taking the "long walk on a short pier", or would that be a "short beer"? The tapping is probably a good idea- I read that just dropping an Alnico magnet can sometimes cause it to lose its magnetic charge... Steve Ahola P.S. I'll have to check out the slot car hobby stores... the automotive machine shops can be expensive so maybe the hobbyists would be cheaper. |
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| Ken |
I think a 'magnetic array' might work, as long as the spaces between your magnets is as small as possible. If I was making one of those, I would probably use lots of small (1/2"?) square magnets because you can get lots of them close together. My P90 was a 1955? I got 20 years ago. It's one of the 'glued together' ones. It was 8.6k, but before I remagged it you could barely hear it. I bought some old magnetism theory texts in a junk shop, supposedly Alnico will lose its charge if you heat it too hot, or drop it, or hit it too hard. My son raced 1/24 scale slot cars a couple of years ago, the local slot car track remagnetized a Strat pickup for me then for $5.00. You can also try a auto alternator repair shop - the one local to me also repairs 'old car' generators and has a remagnetizer too. Ken |
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