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| Adams | Re: Warmoth quality Just depends on whose building it. |
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| Paulie |
If you buy one from Warmouth, just remember (if it is a maple neck) to either order it with a finish or put a finish on it right away. I ordered a flame maple neck / rosewood fretboard 4-5 years ago and didn't install it or finish it until 6 months after I purchased it. Once the laquer was applied, the guitar was put together on a Warmouth swamp ash body w / a set of Fralins...it was beautiful and played great. Then....it started to bow and it has not settled down to this day. Warmouth would not come to my assistance because I waited too long to put the finish on the neck. I now have a beautiful neck that will not stay put. I have no trouble with any of my other guitars, including my 82 strat. In Warmouth,s defence, they cannot control circumstances that I may introduce, such as mentioned above. The quality of the neck work is great. In my defence, the neck sat in the box until I was able to get a finish on it, and I have no use for a neck that is constantly in motion. Be careful and follow all of that fine print that is there to protect a happy transaction. I was optimistic that Warmouth would at least let me send the neck back for inspection but perhaps too many people try to abuse their kindness. I now buy only guitars that I can play first, that knock me out, and from a dealer that I can talk to directly. This increases the chance that they may be more cooperative if I am not satisfied. Paulie |
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| Floyd | Great information on this thread and some very sage advice too. I am looking for a shop to put a nitro color and top coat on the guitar before I order from Warmoth so there will be no warranty problems, thanks Paulie. A simple Olympic white color and non tinted top coat will do fine, anyone know a good shop? |
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| mark webber |
All of you have valid points here. The reason Warmoth stopped advertizing the .1000 of an inch, like Carvin still does is all these necks are now cut on CNC machines. That aside, moisture can swell a neck out of tolerance if it sits long enough. Conversely, if a neck ships to the southwest and sits for a while or you keep it in an extra dry area of your home the neck can shrink to the point that the frets poke out the sides revealing sharp edges. IMO, you'd be ahead of the game by simply buying a MIM Jimmy Vaughn Strat, installing a Callaham block on the bridge and a set of Stephen Designed pickups. After building a dozen or so guitars from various vendors over the years I'm over the urge to roll my own. |
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| BD |
Just saw this post. I have built about 20 or so guitars over the last 3 years from mostly Warmoth parts. I have to say the quality has always been better than anything I have seen from other places except for USACG. It's easier to make a body and there are some guys out there making some nice stuff, you see them on eBay now and then, necks are a different story. I have had a few problems here and there with Warmoth stuff, it's wood......no matter what, you have to know how to do guitar repairs otherwise you won't be able to always get it right. You have to know how to dress frets and cut nuts, do the wiring and so on. I would have them do the finish if you don't know about that. I use tung oil....I really hate finishes on my guitar but they are a necessary evil. The wood comes from an area with a different climate and that has a lot to do with fit. I once purchased a piece of furniture when I was in New Mexico and had it shipped to New York City. It basically exploded from the moisture.....I had to almost completely rebuild it. When I get a piece of wood from them I finish it as fast as possible. I have never had a problem with the maple necks but now I am using Mahogany and those need much more finish. They are also more sensitive to weather changes but I like mahogany better. I will never, ever buy a guitar from Fender or Gibson again. If you have questions about Warmoth, email me and I will gladly help any way I can. |
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