Tube Amps / Music Electronics
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|1/6/2006 1:40 PM|
||6l6s in 6v6 amp|
I have several 6v6 amps (BF Princeton, '60 GA40, mid '60s Epi EA 38 RVT, '65 DR reissue) and in the interest of science and tonal education, am curious what any and/or all of them would sound like running 6l6s. I am unclear as to what mods are necessary in order to do this w/o damaging these pieces.
Can anyone help?
|1/7/2006 8:32 AM|
Generally the pinout of 6V6s and 6L6s is identical. If you want to go from 6V6s to 6L6s you must be aware of the fact that a 6V6 needs 450ma heater current whereas the 6L6 need 900ma, i.e. in a dual tube set up 6L6s need 900ma more heater current. In a Fender Deluxe Reverb this would only give you a slight overload on the heater wiring (10%-20%) provided the power transformer is an original one. A separate 6.3V filament transformer would be recommmendable although the installation would definitely decrease any vintage value of the amp.
Personally I have never exchanged the V with an L so I cannot comment on the sound. I would stay with the V. I like the JJ 6V6S because it has good low end.
|1/7/2006 10:14 AM|
The sound is similar, with more headroom and low end clarity. More like a little Twin Reverb.
New cap covers can be purchased, and an auxillary filament transformer can be bolted to it. There is enough clearance in the chassis holes to run the wiring. Then, if selling the amp, the original cover can be put back on, and the wiring put back to stock.
I agree with the JJ 6V6 comments. They've sounded great in DR's, tweed Deluxe clones, and in Silvertone I've put them in. I had only one failure and it happened a day or two after putting it in. The supplier commented it was the first failure in thousands of tubes, and had a replacement of the same current draw to me in a couple days. No failures since.
FWIW, I do change the screen resistors in Fender's I've worked on, to 1k/5W to help prevent the premature screen failures in Sovteks I've experienced.
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