Tube Amps / Music Electronics
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|2/5/2005 6:18 PM|
|Ray Ivers||CAIG DeoxIT D5|
I've been using this stuff for years, it's always worked well for me. Tonight what it did seems almost like magic.
My Marshall 6100 has seven 12AX7s. It seems like every time I fire it up (daily) some new intermittent-hum thing, varying hiss level or crackle is there to greet me. Tonight I decided to track it down, so I spent about a half-hour swapping preamp tubes, cleaning the tube sockets (CRC QD contact cleaner), scraping the tube pins, etc. The contact cleaner made a difference until it dried, then one or more BS symptom(s) came back - otherwise nothing worked at all.
So... I yanked all the 12AX7's and carefully sprayed the pins with the CAIG stuff (since it claims to improve electrical continuity - which I now believe 100% that it does - I don't think it's a good idea to drench the tube sockets with it), then put them back in the same positions, reinserting them each 3 times to distribute the liquid. Now the amp makes a normal, perfectly even, white-noise hiss with no background rumbling or up-down crap, and no electronic preamp hum at all; both are firsts for this amp. The PT still has hum issues (very long story) but thanks to Heyboer its days are numbered.
Why did I wait so long?
|2/5/2005 7:48 PM|
|daz||something i just learned|
Is not to use deoxit on tube pins because it supposedly turns to a varnish like substance when it bakes for a while and can actually make things worse.
But there is a caig product that lord valve recommend that does work for tube pins w/o any problems because it is a high heat cleaner. meaning the heat won't do anything to it like the deoxit. It's called Caig pro gold. About 5 bucks more than deoxit, but it's safer. And the bonus is i heard a improvement in the tone after i used it.I asked about it at the gear page and found a buch od guys who already knew all this an love the stuff.
|2/6/2005 8:51 AM|
Thanks for the info. One of my tubes (V6) was much hotter than the rest for some reason, and the DeoxIT vanished in a puff of smoke when I sprayed it on the pins (I was waiting for the tube to crack, but I lucked out) but it went back in fine, and so far so good - time will tell, though. I've been meaning to try the Pro Gold for some time, now I've got an excuse.
|2/6/2005 9:23 AM|
From some reliable sources the Caig products are not as good as some of the others. The Deoxit will work for a little bit but it will re-surface again in just a matter of time. Enzo sent me a de-burring tool that I use faithfully for jacks and all types of small connections. One of the big problems with production is when they run the board thru the wave machine the flux mix can accidently cover the jacks and inserts leaving a film on the contacts that's not visible with the nakes eye but after time causes poor contacts and cold solder joints. The best fix was changing the whole connector out. Running a wave machine is a nasty job and a hazardous one and keeping the machine perfectly operable is more of a black art then a routine fix. The Caig Cali-lube is said to leave residue on pots that will corrode them. The Kremel and Radio Shack spray are said to be much better for reliability. Just my $.02,
|2/6/2005 9:25 AM|
I'm never anonomous !,
|2/6/2005 10:36 AM|
|anon||Re: something i just learned|
i found that the RS stuff works good but problems do sometimes reoccur.
i've switched over to deoxit pro-gold gx5 (the high temp version of pro gold) and so far have had excellent luck with it.
and it is very effective when used in very small amounts so a small can goes a long way.
i think any contact cleaning chemical has the potential to corrude the cntacts over time. that's why you should use it sparingly. i don't think the problem is limited to deoxit. in fact i've heard very good reports about pro gold lasting very long without the need to reclean.
|2/6/2005 11:02 AM|
I like to use the DeoxIT or the Gold stuff sparingly on really cruddy pins to loosen the dirt/corrosion followed by 99% isopropyl, pins will be squeaky clean with no residue but as mentioned above LV says the ProGold can take the heat?
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