Tube Amps / Music Electronics
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|6/11/2003 4:30 AM|
||Traynor tweeks and mods|
OK. I see some Traynor stuff here so lets offer each other some valuable information exchange! What have you done to yours that you like, what didn't work out so well? FWIW Here's some results of my experiments with my Traynor.
I have a YGL 3 MK III. I like it's overal build. The transormers are Hammonds and huge, but the tone, IMO leaves a little to be desired as it is. So, I've experimented with some things. Here's some results
Changed the speakers to (1) Celestion V30 and (1)Eminence GB-12. Nice combination IMO. Weber "Beam Blockers" are a big plus with these speakers. Have an extension cabinet loaded the same for gigs.
In the power supply, I plan to replace the electrolytics. They're at least 20 years old or better. So while I have the amp open, I "breadboarded" with clip leads more capacitors.
I've discovered the first stage seems to sound best with around 180 - 220 uF in it. Anybody else agree or disagree? Fuller bass without dominating.
It likes ~50uF (or maybe I like) at the bridge rectifier and then ~20ohm 15W resistor and the first stage filter. Quieter and "softens" the response just a little, but not mushy. (All my other amps have tube rectifiers so this might be why I like this?)
The screens I rewired with individual 1k5, 5W resistors. It's supposed to extend tube life. It does offer a "fuller" sound at lower volume, somewhat. The screens seem to like ~40uF - 50uF filtering.
The 0.001 treble boost cap is, IMO, way too much. I put in a 47pF across the volume pot with a 270pF on the switch for a total of 317pF when switched in. The smaller cap is always "on". They are both silver micas. Much, much clearer or transparent than the ceramic cap they replaced.
Currently I've added a total of 40uF to the preamp instead of the single 10uF. I found a CDE 1uF poly cap, paralleled with it sounds really nice, .
Last night I recapped channel 1's tone stack. A silver mica replaced the ceramic 270pF treble cap. I put in SP715 orange drops for the .047 and the .1.
What a difference! Now the tone controls actually do something. Big difference and improvement over the effects channel, which is still stock. With the power supply cap bypassed with a poly cap and the new tone stack caps, the subtle tone of the guitar comes through now. When I play an electric archtop, the "airy-ness" and "woody-ness" is there. Now I can't wait to do the other one. BUT... any suggestings as to different tone stack values? Might as well have two distintly voiced channels.
One other thing, I wired the first channel into the reverb path so there is reverb on both channels now. I made the connection on the "downstream" side of the coupling caps. Anyone try the"equal channel weighting" or "Tweed mixer" connection that Kevin O'Connor describes in TUT? I'm wondering what the tonal difference might be.
Some other things contemplated: building a new cabinet and extension to match. Channel switching. Replace the shared cathode resistor and bypass cap with seperate ones in the preamps second stage. I'd like to add a switchable bounding diode network for overdrive. I breadboarded a cross channel MV last night too as per TUT. It works great. The PI can be really overdriven vs. the current setup. No need for another gain stage, IMO. The only reason I want a switchable OD option is that I play clean alot too. I want to make adjustable bias for each tube (there are 4 in this amp). Maybe reduce the B+ (switchable) to about 360 - 375 so I can use 4 6V6's
OK, lets hear about your tweaks and mods for you Traynor. What works great, what to avoid. Hope this will start some discussion.
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|6/18/2003 11:05 PM|
Just bumping it up.
I have a YSR-1, and there is precious little information around for tweaking it. Just the usual--tighten up the power supply, replace the 4M pots with 1M. I would sure like to hear some more, maybe about the unusual tone stack, or ways to improve the tremolo.
I do plan to use a lower gain tube in the PI and maybe fool with the coupling caps since the bass gets a little rough when you turn it up.
|6/19/2003 2:23 AM|
The YGL has the same pre amp as a Twin Reverb, with the addition of a MV, at least mine does. Traynor runs the preamp at 150V, lower than the Fender.
I've seen a schem with the Traynor style mid range control. This amp can be a bit bassy. The orange drops help.
|6/22/2003 2:44 PM|
The London Power Standard preamp from TUT works well in the MKIII, or any standard Fender blackface style topology.
You can tweak either channel for different tones. I have built this into MKIII's several times, and subsequently sold the amps to happy customers.
If you own TUT3, I would suggest you clean up the grounding to the Galactic Grounding style while you are in there. It makes a big difference to noise levels.
The ultimate master volume from TUT3, where the MV pot replaces the PI input grid reference resistor also seems to works well.
|6/23/2003 12:50 AM|
I've got TUT vol 1 - 3. Very meaty. I've been pondering voicing one channel Fendery and one Marshally. Also would like to try the London Power Standard.
Grounding is one of the upgrades I'd be doing. As it is now it is a little noisier than I'd like it.
I'll have a look at the ultimate MV. I breadboarded the cross line MV as per TUT. It worked great. Really gets overdrive with it. I've been thinking of using a dual concentric pot to add 2 "MV"s to it for more flexibility. Maybe that's not necesarry.
Thanks for your input. BTW, niece amp collection! And my wife thinks I have too many amps!
|6/26/2003 1:19 PM|
I have two YBA-1A Bassmasters. I have heard about swapping the 4m pots for 1m pots. Could someone explain what effect this has on the amp?
|6/27/2003 7:05 AM|
Yes, the 4meg is too mushy, too much gain, and it over compresses etc. 1meg is more standard and sounds right to the ear.
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