Tube Amps / Music Electronics
For current discussions, please visit Music Electronics Forum.

ampage archive

Vintage threads from the first ten years

Search for:  Mode:  

Re: Lacquering Tweed Tips Needed

8/14/2003 6:32 PM
Re: Lacquering Tweed Tips Needed
Just wondering if the Cab I got from Bruce needs this laquering treatment. Do the mission amps cabs come laquered+shellaced? should i do the colored shellac followed by clear overcoat treatment?
And now, a word from our sponsors:

8/14/2003 7:45 PM
TD Madden

If I was to do another of Bruce's cabs (I've done two already), I start with a coat or two of the clear shellac, just to seal the tweed. The amber shellac color sometimes makes the seams look funky, and first sealing the tweed with clear prevents that.
8/18/2003 8:12 PM
Bruce /Mission Amps

Yes, the 5E3 cabinets I sell have one coat of a sealer/lacquer.  
Is it enough?.  
If you really gig out with the 5E3 or drag the amp around, I'd say no.  
Therefore, I always apply a couple more coats of something to the tweed cabinets I use when building one.  
This is something a 5E3 homebuilder can do easily at home and it helps keep my cost down.  
8/19/2003 1:58 PM

cool. It sorta felt like there was something on there, just real thin. I do plan on both gigging with it AND dragging it around ;) so i'll put a couple more coats on.
8/19/2003 1:43 PM
Jeff Lynch

I just finished shellacing my cabinet received from Mission Amps. Here is the story.  
I put one more coat of clear sealer on the tweed. Let that dry overnight. Then I used the Bullseye Amber Shellac cut 50/50 with denatured alcohol. I put it on with thin coats and a 2" china bristle brush. I let the shellac dry at least 4 hours between coats.  
The first coat came out good. I put screws in the bottom where the glides go to be temporary feet so I could do the bottom and then turn it over to do the rest.  
When I did the second coat certain parts of the cabinet turned a putrid white color! I was freaking at that moment. It was very humid that day. All right, calm down, all is not lost. I let it dry overnight and then sanded the whole thing down with 220 grit sandpaper until the finish was consistent again.  
At this time I seriously considered changing to minwax, but I stuck with the shellac. I mixed up a fresh batch of 50/50 and went to it.  
This coat went on fine, no white splotches. It dried fine but I could faintly see some evidence of the white splotches from before. Very faint. I decided to put on one more coat to even it out (that makes 2-1/2?) and it went on fine.  
The end result is slightly darker than some I have seen, but very classy. There is no evidence of the earlier mess. It is rather shiny. I have heard of some guys using Johnson's paste wax with 0000 steel wool between coats to tone down the shine.  
All in all it ended up very fine. Shellac seems to be the classical approach, but mine was almost a disaster.
8/19/2003 2:57 PM
Bruce/ MissionAmps

High humidity can cause blushing in lacquer finishes too.  
The thing about shellac is that is is soluable with alcohol and when applied very wet (mixed with the alcohol) the alcohol absorbs water. After a time the blushing seems to diminish.  
Out here near Denver Colorado the humidity is frequently in the single digits! Very dry.  
I don't have a humidity related problem using shellac, but in other parts of the country this could be a problem.  
8/28/2003 4:24 PM
bob p
"Then I used the Bullseye Amber Shellac cut 50/50 with denatured alcohol. "
one of the perils in using a shellac finish is that dried shellac remains alcohol soluble. (woodworkers who can't tell if a piece of wood is covered in shellac or lacquer will use an alcohol pad to test the surface. if the surface softens, its shellac.)  
fwiw, i'd stick with a lacquer finish, as its more resistant to alcohol than shellac. this may not be a problem for you, but there are plenty of amps that get exposed to alcohol in their lifetimes...

<<First Page<PrevPage 2 of 3 Next> Last Page>>