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Lacquering Tweed Tips Needed


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7/22/2003 5:14 AM
JT
Lacquering Tweed Tips Needed
As my 5E3 nears completion i have decided to Laquer My Tweed Cab before Mounting the chassis. Any tips , Suggestions on materials, or advice would be much appreciated . Thanks!
 
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7/22/2003 11:56 AM
TD Madden

I put three coats of "amber" Bullseye shellac (mixed 50/50 with denatured alcohol and allowed to dry COMPLETELY between coats) on my 5E3....followed by three coats of Johnson's Paste Wax applied with fine steel-wool and lightly buffed....looks very good.
 
7/22/2003 1:56 PM
don
I scoured the internet before I did mine and found the following info:  
How do you lacquer Tweed amps cases?  
 
I remember someone posting detailed instructions on this back at the FDP or TDPRI a few different times.  
I'm bored and thinking about doing an aged lacquer on my RI tweed case. How do I do it?  
 
>The choice for "lacquering" tweed amps is Zinsser Bullseye Orange Shellac brushed on although just today  
someone told me that it is available in an aerosol spray can. My question is how do you clean the tweed before  
applying the shellac? Perhaps you could clean it with spray on carpet cleaner and vacuum (did I just misspell  
vacuum or is this the only word in the English language with double "u"s?). I'm not sure about the cleaning but  
pretty confident on the Zinsser.  
 
>Bill, you might consider putting together a tweed aging kit, or a shellacking kit of some sort. I have seen the  
spray shellac but not tried it yet.  
 
>Here's the "formula" as discussed on the old TDP, and field tested by Bill Hullett: Orange (amber) shellac cut 50/50 (or so) with denatured alcohol solvent, applied with  
a bristle brush. Multiple coats to achieve the color, and even out splotchiness. Satin lacquer topcoat if desired for protection from alcohol and moisture, and/or to reduce  
sheen. Brushing splotches could be reduced by spraying, but look fine and authentic. Practice on scrap first... Good china bristle brushes used to be very expensive, now  
you can find them cheap at the stores that carry Chinese made tools. Contributed by Alan P. 12/2/00  
 
I'd like to take the credit for this recipe but its from TDP brother Bill  
Hullett. I did this to my RI and it looks great! Here goes. Get some  
Bullseye amber shellac (check the date on the can, you want fresh, not more  
then 3 or 4 months old) and mix it with denatured alcohol..50/50 mix. Mix  
it well. Remove the chassis, baffleboard with speakers and all the  
hardware. Carefully, pry the edges of the front and rear logo plates and  
remove. Insert a nail into each of the screw holes that held the feet in  
place. Tap nails in ..they will be temporary feet, so that you can shellac  
the bottom and then flip the cabinet over and do the rest. Brush on the  
50/50 mix and let it dry for about four hours ( overnight is best )...apply  
3 or 4 coats..it gets darker with each coat so stop when you get it where  
you want it. When its dry you can hit it with some clear spray lacquer to  
protect the shellac from alcohol..of course if you spill bourbon on the top  
of your tweed amp, the shellac is the least of your worries!!!! Once the  
cabinet is dry you can reassemble...mine really looks great. I'm waiting  
for the custom shop to start doing this..relic'ed '59 bassman reissues."  
 
We use our own custom formulation, but have seen good results from do-it-yourselfers who used Bullseye brand Orange/Amber Shellac, satin finish  
or Minwax brand "Polyshades" polyurethane - Honey Pine color, Satin finish. The shellac should be cut 1:1 with denatured alchohol and applied with a  
brush. Use enough coats to achieve the color you like, follow with clear shellac if a thicker finish is desired. The Minwax can be applied right from the  
can; work fast to keep a "wet edge". Use a finishing pad (synthetic steel wool - like a Scotch pad) to rub between coats to eliminate the roughness of  
some tweed. Hardware on guitar cases must be carefully masked. WORK SAFE! Follow all warnings and directions on the product containers. The  
shellac and alchohol are very flammable, the poly is smelly. PS - we can do all this for you using our own custom amber finish if you don't have the time,  
place, patience, etc.
 
7/22/2003 11:01 PM
JT
Any Suggestions Bruce?
Thanks guys..Bruce any suggestions?
 
7/23/2003 2:53 AM
Bruce/ MissionAmps

Not really... those were all my suggestions.  
Don't forget to take the baffle off.  
If using shellac, do the bottom of the cab first and then start from the bottom of the sides working your way up so you drip into wet areas and use a rag to wipe as you go.  
Bruce
 
7/23/2003 3:31 AM
dynodan

If I can add my 2 cents here..... There are several type of 'tweed' out there. Make sure yo do a test area first to make sure you have no reactions with the glue that holds the tweed to the cabinet, and to the coating on the tweed itself....!!!!!
 
7/29/2003 3:06 AM
JT
Cab finished and looks Great
Although the amp is'nt quite working just yet , I finished the cab and it looks fantastic. I am a complete beginner and came out with a Pro-looking cab .I used 2 coats of Minwax brand "Polyshades" polyurethane - Honey Pine color, Satin finish. Light wool between coats and finished with Mini-wax paste wax and buffed her out. I am very pleased with the outcome and highly recommend doing it .
 

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