Tube Amps / Music Electronics
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|9/30/2000 5:35 AM|
||Re: Traynor Model Differences; Gord?|
Hey Gord, I've just opened it up so I haven't had a chance to look it over very closely, but this is what I've found out:
Serial #: 0361
Frontpanel has Bassmaster at lower right and Range expander on bottom; I've seen some letters on top but these are on bottom. The back panel has the serial # with "Bassamp" no YBA1
The face and back panels have some dings and bends in them but I'm thinking they may come out with some work.
Interesting though; the board is phenolic with turrets! I've read this is "old" construction.
Also, on the octal sockets, pins 1&6 have no solder lugs; only slots where they should go? The amp came to me with Sovtek EL34WXT's.
The amp has it's original caps which are:
4-smaller can style caps which do not have any rating marked? The markings are: YS45-4-0 and DEB5 with 85degrees. The caps on the board are old paper Mallorys with no ratings either, just these codes I'm not familiar with.
Gord, the amp is in solid condition aside for a few dings (only 2 original knobs left), the cab is in good shape. I got the amp from Songbird in Ottawa and paid a little over $200.00 USD. I've been looking for a tube rectified model for sometime to have a "poor man's" JTM45! I'm actually thinking about ValveArt KT66's, but they may not fit.
I've not been able to crank it hard, but it's really bright on channel 2 and bassy on 1; I play through a 2-12" closed back Jenkins cab with Vintage 30's. It sounds really nice as it is, but it needs a cap job due to excessive hum.
Do you have any idea what value caps these are? I'll probably go with Marshall values (32,32,16,16)?
|9/30/2000 9:39 PM|
That's pretty old. Cool, eh?
Yeah, it's beautiful, isn't it? Notice how beautifully the turrets are machined.
I've never been there, but the one in T.O. is very cool!
Yeah. That's why I modded it. This is what I did:
-Bassman tone stack
-5k presence pot without the resistor (make sure you keep the NFB resistor 100k too)
-Clipped out the bright volume pot's bypass cap
-rewired first tube cathode resistors to:
->1k/2.2uf poly film bypass cap for fat channel
->1k/1uf poly film for shrill channel
All the above mods seem to work well for me.
I have no clue, but give me a day or so to check. IMO, you can't go wrong with stock Fender or Marshall values. The only one's I've changed the caps on were some later model ones I've owned in the past. My tube rectifier units are all dead quiet, with no out-of-tune notes, punchy and dynamic. No signs of having to change the caps. I realize that they're old.
I wonder if these caps can be reformed by keeping the amp on for a while with a current limiter?
|10/1/2000 3:20 AM|
||Re: Thanks Man!|
Gord, thanks for the advise and opinions. Yeah the construction is very cool and I'm glad to have the amp. I am looking for an old logo for it if you come across one let me know. It also needs a better standby switch (cheap replacement).
I'm still curious about the Octal Sockets; Are your Traynors missing lugs 1&6?
|10/1/2000 4:59 AM|
Troy, mine are the same. You would have to switch sockets if you needed a lug on pin #1.
Why would they even bother to do that?
Make sure you tell me how it sounds once all of the work is done!
|10/1/2000 1:42 PM|
Hi All You YBA-1'ers,
Just curious as to the speakers and cabs you guys are using. I have the chrome bumper model and I don't have the cab so have been connecting to an open back cab. I need to buy speakers for my ampeg closed back cab 4-12. But aren't the original cabs for YBA-1's 8-10's? What's the general consensus for the best match for these amps? Thanks, T.B.
|10/1/2000 2:22 PM|
I've seen them with 2x12, 4x12, 4x10, 8x10 1x15 and 2x15 cabs, even a cab with 2x10 and 1x15 in between them, all original Traynor. I use a 1x15 with a Canadian made speaker in it, although they'd all sound good, depending on your taste. Any 8 Ohm cab would be just fine.
My guess is that these heads and cabs were sold separately, and not as a set, although I'm not sure. So you could pick whatever cab you wanted. I think that the 8x10 cabs were often sold with the Custom Special amps.
A cool web site is www.yorkville.com for general info, although I don't agree with the production dates they give for their old amps. According to them, ny SS rectifier model should be 1966, even though all of the pots in that amp date to 1968.
Once you get there, click on 'archive'.
|10/1/2000 5:05 PM|
Thanks for the info Gord -
Another question though, these cabs you mention - are they all closed back? If not, have you tried open backs? I've only tried mine through a couple of different open back speakers. Thinking maybe that amp should be played through closed back for more focus and tighter bass.
I've played with coupling caps, the volume bypass cap with and without, tone stack, slope values, changed couple of values at the phase inverter, etc., etc. and there is a wide variety of voicings to be had. Haven't decided when to quit fiddling and settle on something. It's like I like it this way and then again I like it that way. Far out !!!
It's such an easy amp to work on. Got mine for $10.00 from a music store that had taken it in on trade and found it didn't work. Couple of tube changes, filter caps and it fired right up.
I've got an empty Ampeg 4-12 cab that needs speakers so if you or anyone can recommend some that would sound nice with the YBA-1 then I would consider that. Cause speaker wise - I'm totally confused. It's taken me a long time to understand that speakers make so much difference, although I do believe that an amp can be tweaked to extract the most from any particular speaker (of decent quality to begin with).
Thanks again and I await somemroe input. T.B.
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