Staking tools and eyelet-based circuit boards: questions

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12/18/1999 5:58 AM

EmScott

Staking tools and eyelet-based circuit boards: questions I've never seen a circuit board made of eyelets...I'm gonna try to build one from scratch one of these days, having accumulated some parts to try make an AB763 Deluxe Reverb clone. I thought I'd have grokked the answer by now to the following questions by following this page, but I don't get it yet...     When you "stake" an eyelet, am I right that you mean to flatten the flanged part with a heavy object so that the eyelet will stay in the drilled hole forever ? Could you just do this with a lightweight upholstery hammer, or is the phenolic circuit board so brittle that you'd smash it ?     When you push an eyelet into the hole in the circuit board, do you put the wire from the resistor, cap, et cetera through the flanged end, or the other end, or does it not matter at all ? Is there a "cool way" to do this ?     Do you expect to solder the wire from the resistor, cap or other circuit element to the eyelet itself ? Or do you solder the two wires from the adjacent circuit elements together, expecting the eyelet to physically hold the wires in the eyelet, without soldering any wire directly to the eyelet ? Does everybody twist the wires from adjacent circuit elements obsessively together before soldering them to each other ?     I think I'm supposed to know this, but I don't--thanks for any help offered. Maybe none of this matters, but hey, why not ask....

 

12/18/1999 8:53 AM

Tracy

Hi   I've actually used the masonite type material and It seemed to work OK. I know it's not fire resistant, but it held up to soldering with eyelets. Don't mount tube sockets on it. mount them on the metal chassie. If this polycarbonite stuff doesn't melt from a soldering gun it might be ok. You can order 1/8 inch fiberglass garolite circuit board from Mcmaster-Carr supply co. online. Also the eyelets and staking tool at Mouser electronics.     Tracy

 

12/18/1999 5:54 PM
SteveF	I've gotten reasonable results using   a pointed punch to "stake" the tubular   end of the eyelet, then flattening it   with a couple of gentle taps from a   hammer (pref. a small one!).   The tube will split and flatten out   very easily, as these are made of   brass. The board is very rugged, and   besides, you don't have to hit it   hard at all.     SF

 

12/18/1999 8:37 PM

Winnie

Okay, here goes: This is my do-it-on-the-cheap-and-innovative-way:     I went to the local hardware/lumberyard and got some scrap formica. It was black, but as you know it comes in a lot of different colors. This is the stuff they make kitchen countertops from.     Well, I designed my board, This is a board I built to put in my musicman which is being converted to blond bassman pramps. I copied the pin placement onto another sheet of graph paper and fastened it to the formica. I then drovecopper-clad brads through it, glued a second piece of formica onto the back and clipped the brads so they were shorter. It looks good, is heat resistant enough to not burn when soldered and was pretty inexpensive.     Winnie

 

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