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Home Depot

12/3/1999 8:36 AM
Gil Ayan
Home Depot
I have bought most of the wire I have been using in my amps at a local surplus store that has very good quality stuff and great prices. But, don't underestimate Home Depot. I know this varies from store to store, but a particular Home Depot here in L.A. (the one in MArina del Rey, for the locals), sells great teflon wire gauges 18 and thicker for 9 cents a foot... and they sell it by the foot, not the spool. Other stores will not sell you less than a spool.  
So, it may be worth checking out your local HD. All of my filament harness wire has come from them...  
12/3/1999 5:57 PM
Irradiated PVC Insulation Hook-up wire
Mouser sales UL1429 Solder Iron Resistant Irradiated PVC Hook-up wire page 87 cat #596. Stranded tinned copper. Does anyone use this stuff? My last project I used the Radio Shack wire which the insulation would melt too easily. I suppose that this irradiated stuff wouldn't melt right, and will it glow in the dark???...  
Home Depot is great place for metal pieces too. In most stores, next to their screw bolt section they have an assortment of metal channel and sheet metal plates.  
12/3/1999 6:10 PM
Dave Stork

I just wish they (Home Depot) carried copper foil or flashing. I was building a transmitter recently, and I wanted some copper sheet to build shielding partitions around the class-C output stage and the lowpass filter, and I couldn't find it anywhere around here... not at HD, or even at the many local craft stores, for that matter. I ended up using pieces of unetched copperclad circuit board.
12/3/1999 8:24 PM
Bryan Prud'Homme

Dave, I usually find copper flashing and in sheet form (in large rolls) at local roofers. They never quite understand why I want the stuff but are always glad to sell it to me. Bryan Prud'Homme
12/4/1999 6:59 AM
Brian Copper....AceHardware...and ground planes
Hi Dave,  
I was in Ace Hardware today and noticed that they sell small 9" x "9 and 6"x6" sheets of copper, tin, brass, and aluminum. They came in several thickness selections. I've been wondering if using something like that as ground plane would be useful. For a typical turret board layout, would having a ground plane be better than a star ground? I'm starting to layout a high gain preamp project and wondered if having a copper ground plane underneath everthing would be useful, where at the end of the board ,where the last preamp stage is located, would be the connection to PS ground? I bought some of those neat isolated turret lugs that I could bolt directly onto the copper. I could see problems if something came loose, it could easily short to ground.  
I should probably repost this to the Guitar amps forum, but I thought I'd pass on the info about the copper sheets.  
12/6/1999 8:11 PM
Don Symes

Tell me more about these isolated turret lugs. Can you solder to 'em while they're installed? Are there physically identical non-isolated ones, too?  
The copper plane idea is more of a tweako-boutique thing, I think. It can't hurt (much) - especially if you use it as your substrate and make the component grounds thru non-iso lugs. If your wiring technique is super-neat you'll have some fantastic project photos, and could maybe justify a (transparent) plexi cabinet.  
The thing bothering me is: how do you keep the copper from corroding once you're done wiring? Not important electrically (I think ?) but cosmetically, and messy to rework later.
12/7/1999 3:59 PM

I have seen isolated (insulated) turret lug posts, in fact I have some. They came from surplus, so I don't know if they are currently produced. Picture a plastic standoff insulator, with an embedded 6-32 hex nut at the base for attaching to chassis, and a turret post (some have a split fork instead) at the top. I guess they can be used for running an insulated bus above a ground plane, or single terminal points where necessary.  
The bare copper sheet available for roof flashing is fairly shiny when new. It takes quite a while to brown in the atmosphere. But you could spray it with clear enamel or lacquer after all the wiring is completed & thoroughly checked out, if you wanted it to always look like a new penny. Clear finish could always be scraped locally to add another solder point in the future (watch your heat input).
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