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| Lars |
refrett a maple fretboard.. If I change fretts an a mapel fretboard do I have to varnish the fretbord/neck again or can I just change fretts and level them ??? Lars |
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| Doc |
If you carefully remove the old frets, and you carefully finish the new wire so that the length is correct and the ends are smooth (so that external filing and sanding is not required after installation), then it's likely you can get away with no maple refinishing. I've redressed the ends of installed fretwire on a maple neck that was factory finished in poly-something or other, and just masked and sprayed the fingerboard edge area with clear lacquer, then wet sanded the edge to feather it in, with excellent results. Shouldn't be a problem if you do careful work. What kind of guitar is it? Early Fenders (before 1980) had frets pulled through the groove from one side. Later Fenders, and I think all other guitars, have frets pressed straight down into the groove. I mention this because there may be a preferred method of removal & installation to limit the splintering of the fingerboard on either side of the grooves. |
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| Lars |
It's a Fender from 1975, it has it's frets pulled through the groove from one side. Thanks for the answer Lars |
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| Doc |
On the '70s strats & teles, the polyester was laid on pretty thick on the neck, including the fingerboard. I think these are the toughest to refret without refinishing. Since the clear is sprayed right over the fretted neck, there is a lot of paint in the fillet between the edge of the fret and the maple. In order to save the original finish, and keep it from lifting, you'll have to carefully score the finish along the fret edge (use a sharp blade and guide it tightly to the metal edge), and maybe at the ends before you remove them. After you sucessfully remove the old frets, it might be a good idea to lightly sand down the "peaks" left on either side of the fret groove, to feather the abrupt edge and aid in preventing separation or chipping of the original finish. |
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