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Vintage threads from the first ten years

Re: Japanese Strat question

8/3/1999 4:59 PM
Liam	Re: Japanese Strat question I can't believe they're so rare everywhere apart from the UK. We've had loads of them since the MIJ Squiers in 1982. There's a whole range of cool guitars. I think someone told me they were made in the same factory Yamaha were using at the time. (but who knows) Someone ought to write a history of the MIJ Fender. My guess is that in 20 years time they're going to be like pre-CBS strats are now! The early 80's models were definitely the best, and from 1990 to 96 the pus, finish and hardware got pretty bad. The "holy grail" of these guitars is the 1982-4 Squier '52 ri Telecaster. If you see one, buy it. I've seen them advertized for about Ł450 ($750) here in the UK, but they sell pretty fast even at that.

8/3/1999 4:59 PM

Liam

Re: Japanese Strat question

I can't believe they're so rare everywhere apart from the UK. We've had loads of them since the MIJ Squiers in 1982. There's a whole range of cool guitars. I think someone told me they were made in the same factory Yamaha were using at the time. (but who knows)

Someone ought to write a history of the MIJ Fender. My guess is that in 20 years time they're going to be like pre-CBS strats are now! The early 80's models were definitely the best, and from 1990 to 96 the pus, finish and hardware got pretty bad. The "holy grail" of these guitars is the 1982-4 Squier '52 ri Telecaster. If you see one, buy it. I've seen them advertized for about Ł450 ($750) here in the UK, but they sell pretty fast even at that.

8/4/1999 1:53 AM
JohnC	I thought that Squires came later than Japanese Fenders (with the Fender logo) Am I wrong? (I don't know, really) I have tried a few Teles a month ago, and I liked Japanese models a lot (well, I actually prefered them to a lot of the rest of Fender's possible origins, that's the real truth). I don't know that much about dates and models, so maybe they where previously selected (old models?) guitars by the owner of the shop. Since I prefer to play unpluged if the shop is quiet, I can't say much about the pickups though...

8/4/1999 1:53 AM

JohnC

I thought that Squires came later than Japanese Fenders (with the Fender logo)

Am I wrong? (I don't know, really)

I have tried a few Teles a month ago, and I liked Japanese models a lot (well, *I* actually prefered them to a lot of the rest of Fender's possible origins, that's the real truth). I don't know that much about dates and models, so maybe they where previously selected (old models?) guitars by the owner of the shop. Since I prefer to play unpluged if the shop is quiet, I can't say much about the pickups though...

8/4/1999 2:49 PM
Liam	No, the Jap Squiers came first, but Squier production was then moved to Korea and then China. That's when the Jap Fenders were introduced. The early ones (1987?) were pretty similar to the Jap Squiers which they replaced. The Jap Teles: I've had a couple of now, but I get the neck's shaved a bit thinner, and change the pus and electrical parts. They're superb guitars, and I also prefer them to US stuff. I think they're out of production now. BTW, the best of the Jap Squiers have "JV" as the prefix to the serial # on the back of the neck. In the UK they're known as "JV Squier Strats" and fetch a premium price, as they're pretty collectable.

8/4/1999 2:49 PM

Liam

No, the Jap Squiers came first, but Squier production was then moved to Korea and then China. That's when the Jap Fenders were introduced. The early ones (1987?) were pretty similar to the Jap Squiers which they replaced. The Jap Teles: I've had a couple of now, but I get the neck's shaved a bit thinner, and change the pus and electrical parts. They're superb guitars, and I also prefer them to US stuff. I think they're out of production now.

BTW, the best of the Jap Squiers have "JV" as the prefix to the serial # on the back of the neck. In the UK they're known as "JV Squier Strats" and fetch a premium price, as they're pretty collectable.

8/4/1999 9:32 PM
david	it may be a bit off topic since you already have the guitar, but i agree with most of what is said here about the japanese strats. i bought one new in 87 because at that time fender wasn't making hardtail strats, but i could get a japanese hardtail. for years this was my primary instrument. it is a basswood body, and i'm not sure how this effects the sound, but this guitar has a gorgous ring unplugged, almost as loud as an acoustic guitar. the high strings continue to ring on this guitar and don't "buzz out" like they do on some of my other guitars-the high strings continue to ring with their own strident voice. the neck on the guitar is perfect, and has taken on a nice yellowish tint (i didn't notice until i removed the neck for a truss rod adjustment and the wood that never saw the light of day was white). the tuners are gotoh and have been fine. the pickups and switch have to go. the pickups that were in there were very harsh sounding, any quality replacement will be better. david

8/4/1999 9:32 PM

david

it may be a bit off topic since you already have the guitar, but i agree with most of what is said here about the japanese strats. i bought one new in 87 because at that time fender wasn't making hardtail strats, but i could get a japanese hardtail. for years this was my primary instrument. it is a basswood body, and i'm not sure how this effects the sound, but this guitar has a gorgous ring unplugged, almost as loud as an acoustic guitar. the high strings continue to ring on this guitar and don't "buzz out" like they do on some of my other guitars-the high strings continue to ring with their own strident voice. the neck on the guitar is perfect, and has taken on a nice yellowish tint (i didn't notice until i removed the neck for a truss rod adjustment and the wood that never saw the light of day was white). the tuners are gotoh and have been fine. the pickups and switch have to go. the pickups that were in there were very harsh sounding, any quality replacement will be better.

david

8/5/1999 3:32 AM
JohnC	Yes, thanks to Don I discovered the pu's are ceramics. And yes, they are very rough sounding; loud but I don't like them. I can't get out of them the sound shades I always look for the blues. It has Gothos, and was made in 88-89 I believe (H serial#). The neck is just incredible. Not the deluxe tele neck I have in another guitar, but in some way as good. Slow growing mapple, 10 year rings running perfectly in parallel from the body end to the head. Believe me, is great. First thing I took off the old strings, and after cleaning, and replacing the horrible skull pickguard for a 3 ply american standard one (some of the holes don't fit...) adjusted by "feel" the truss rod -flat-, restrung, made the average saddle positioning for the intonation and action: not a single buzz. I don't know if basswood is the same here, but I know that kind of wood. Long time ago it was used to make kid toys. I also have some pieces around my garage/basement/computer room/guitar room left from when I used a big piece to make a carpenter's workbench clamp. It's a fine grain quite hard not very heavy wood, and if you knock on it, it's got a realy nice sound. It's a pity I cannot compare it with a poplar body american made strat to hear the difference. Now I have to think about the pickups, as I definetely don't like the ceramics at all. I'll change one after another, and maybe I'll keep the one on the neck or the mid position. I noticed that this guitar hasn't the bright long sustain (umpluged) that my fixed bridge Fender has, but again unpluged, it's got a nice coloured tone of it's own. Is it that guitars with this kind of vibrato have less sustain that fixed bridge models? Thanks to you all for your comments! JohnC

8/5/1999 3:32 AM

JohnC

Yes, thanks to Don I discovered the pu's are ceramics.

And yes, they are very rough sounding; loud but I don't like them. I can't get out of them the sound shades I always look for the blues.

It has Gothos, and was made in 88-89 I believe (H serial#).

The neck is just incredible. Not the deluxe tele neck I have in another guitar, but in some way as good. Slow growing mapple, 10 year rings running perfectly in parallel from the body end to the head. Believe me, is great. First thing I took off the old strings, and after cleaning, and replacing the horrible skull pickguard for a 3 ply american standard one (some of the holes don't fit...) adjusted by "feel" the truss rod -flat-, restrung, made the average saddle positioning for the intonation and action: not a single buzz.

I don't know if basswood is the same here, but I know that kind of wood. Long time ago it was used to make kid toys. I also have some pieces around my garage/basement/computer room/guitar room

left from when I used a big piece to make a carpenter's workbench clamp. It's a fine grain quite hard not very heavy wood, and if you knock on it, it's got a realy nice sound. It's a pity I cannot compare it with a poplar body american made strat to hear the difference.

Now I have to think about the pickups, as I definetely don't like the ceramics at all. I'll change one after another, and maybe I'll keep the one on the neck or the mid position.

I noticed that this guitar hasn't the bright long sustain (umpluged) that my fixed bridge Fender has, but again unpluged, it's got a nice coloured tone of it's own.

Is it that guitars with this kind of vibrato have less sustain that fixed bridge models?

Thanks to you all for your comments!

JohnC

8/5/1999 4:58 AM
Steve A.	John: Is it that guitars with this kind of vibrato have less sustain that fixed bridge models? I think that one of the basic laws of physics is involved here ("for every action there is an equal and opposite counter reaction..."). Having the vibrato block "floating" between the springs and the tension from the strings will swallow up some of the sound and sustain. In other words not all of the sound energy from the strings is getting transferred to the body. Just tightening down the springs on the back so that the vibrato block rests tightly against the body will help some, and you can still use the tremelo bar to bend down. (That works with the vintage-style strat tremelo bridges, not the newer ones that pivot on 2 screws since the bridge may end up at a weird angle...) If you don't need to use the tremelo bar at all you can block the vibrato block with a hard wood trimmed to hold the block at the desired angle. (I haven't done this myself so I'm not sure if you just wedge the wood piece(s) in place or use glue...) Steve Ahola P.S. Hipshot makes a vibrato stabilizer that mounts next to the springs. It uses springs and countersprings to help hold the block in place so that your low strings don't get way out of tune when you bend the high strings. I've added them to all of my strats and they allow you to use the bar while helping to keep the guitar in tune. (I think that Fender is marketing them these days, too.) One drawback: as you rock the bar from below pitch to above pitch, I get a little knocking sound (but maybe I've just never gotten them adjusted right!) And if you are trying to do a Joe Satriani-style "flutter" by flicking the end of the tremelo bar- forget it: the stabilizer swallows all of that as it tries to keep the block in place...

8/5/1999 4:58 AM

Steve A.

John:

Is it that guitars with this kind of vibrato have less sustain that fixed bridge models?

    I think that one of the basic laws of physics is involved here ("for every action there is an equal and opposite counter reaction..."). Having the vibrato block "floating" between the springs and the tension from the strings will swallow up some of the sound and sustain. In other words not all of the sound energy from the strings is getting transferred to the body.

    Just tightening down the springs on the back so that the vibrato block rests tightly against the body will help some, and you can still use the tremelo bar to bend down. (That works with the vintage-style strat tremelo bridges, not the newer ones that pivot on 2 screws since the bridge may end up at a weird angle...)

    If you don't need to use the tremelo bar at all you can block the vibrato block with a hard wood trimmed to hold the block at the desired angle. (I haven't done this myself so I'm not sure if you just wedge the wood piece(s) in place or use glue...)

Steve Ahola

P.S. Hipshot makes a vibrato stabilizer that mounts next to the springs. It uses springs and countersprings to help hold the block in place so that your low strings don't get way out of tune when you bend the high strings. I've added them to all of my strats and they allow you to use the bar while helping to keep the guitar in tune. (I think that Fender is marketing them these days, too.) One drawback: as you rock the bar from below pitch to above pitch, I get a little knocking sound (but maybe I've just never gotten them adjusted right!) And if you are trying to do a Joe Satriani-style "flutter" by flicking the end of the tremelo bar- forget it: the stabilizer swallows all of that as it tries to keep the block in place...

8/5/1999 10:07 AM
Liam	I don't think the tiny knocking sound is avoidable. I gave up with the stabilizers because of that, and the ammount of time it took me to get them set-up to my liking. A bit of silicon/teflon based lubricant (GT85)in the nut slots works great for me.

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