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Vintage threads from the first ten years

Blackface BandMaster

2/24/2000 6:24 AM
Nils	Blackface BandMaster Hi, This is my first real vintage since I got the blues. Should the volume on the vibrato-channel really be much lower than the normal channel, if not, any pointers. Nils

2/24/2000 1:34 PM
Brad	Nils, Mine ain't. Don't have any pointers for ya, although I'm sure they'll start streaming in soon. Good luck, and have fun with it. Brad

2/24/2000 3:39 PM
Trace	Nils; If you are happy with the sound of the amp then I'd leave it as is. If you want to experiment a bit with it I've jotted in a few things to try. The most important thing is to go with what sounds good to your ears! === Most of the Bandmasters had a .001uF coupling cap going to the Phase Inverter, I believe it goes to pin#2(?) Some bandmasters used a 500pF cap. You could try to put a .022uF in place of the original cap. This tends to thicken the amp up nicely. === You can also change the 1.5K cathode resistor on teh first stage to an 820ohm. It will give you a little touch gain. === GAIN MOD ON A SWITCH -- ala-Richie Hall If you don't use the bright-switches (most people shy away from these) you can either remove the cap from the switch or, if you like the cap in the circuit, just solder it to the volume pot so it's always "on." Then locate the 6.8K resistor that is located on the bass pot and goes to ground. 1.) Lift (unsolder) this resistor from ground and solder a wire to it. Then connect the wire to the bright-switch where one leg of the cap(120pF) was. 2.) Now solder another wire to the switch where the otehr leg of the cap was located. Now solder the other end of that wire to ground. It can go where the 6.8K resistor was grounded or you can solder it to where the cathode resistor is soldered to ground. (where ever you like) When the switch is in the "off" or "down" position everything is normal. When you kick it to the "on" position you'll get killer gain sound! You will loose the EQ controls when the switch is on but when it's off you can use them. It's a really trick that Richie Hall turned me onto a while ago. I think Boogie or Dumble happened to do as well(?) It seems someone mentioned that a little while ago. Richie came across it be experimenting. === You could replace the 820ohm feedback resistor and replce it with a 47K or 100K. It will give you a more dynamic feel to the amp. The 820ohm gives you that nice Fender "spank." Most blues players love an amp that is dymanic. === EQ (tone stack) CHANGES You can replace the 250pF cap with a 500pF. I think Steve Ahola likes a 1000pF cap here. I have been meaning to tr this value but I need to buy some of those caps! (ha, ha) ohhhh....also Steve's site has some mods for Fenders. The 100K "slope resistor" (connected to the 250pF cap) can be changed. Anything between 100K to 33K. I like a 56K in Fenders but go with what sounds good to you. I'm not sure if you have the .1uF/.047uF combination or the .1uF/.022uD combo. If you dig the Fender-vibe on the tone controls you can leave it alone. If you find there's a .047uF in there then often times a .022uF will smooth out the low-end nicely. I also favor a .022 in place of the .1 myself but that's just me. === Lot's of the Band Masters used a .1uF or a .05uF for the coupling caps that go from the Phase Inverter to the power tubes. I personally favor the .047's in this spot. The .1's can be a bit too muddy but it all depends on each amp. Christ, that's enough for me!! (ha, ha) I am truily rambling on now. I need to get my first cup of coffee now!!! Have fun and go with what sounds good to you! Trace

2/24/2000 3:39 PM

Trace

Nils;

If you are happy with the sound of the amp then I'd leave it as is. If you want to experiment a bit with it I've jotted in a few things to try. The most important thing is to go with what sounds good to your ears!

=== Most of the Bandmasters had a .001uF coupling cap going to the Phase Inverter, I believe it goes to pin#2(?) Some bandmasters used a 500pF cap. You could try to put a .022uF in place of the original cap. This tends to thicken the amp up nicely.

=== You can also change the 1.5K cathode resistor on teh first stage to an 820ohm. It will give you a little touch gain.

=== GAIN MOD ON A SWITCH -- ala-Richie Hall

If you don't use the bright-switches (most people shy away from these) you can either remove the cap from the switch or, if you like the cap in the circuit, just solder it to the volume pot so it's always "on." Then locate the 6.8K resistor that is located on the bass pot and goes to ground.

1.) Lift (unsolder) this resistor from ground and solder a wire to it. Then connect the wire to the bright-switch where one leg of the cap(120pF) was.

2.) Now solder another wire to the switch where the otehr leg of the cap was located. Now solder the other end of that wire to ground. It can go where the 6.8K resistor was grounded or you can solder it to where the cathode resistor is soldered to ground. (where ever you like)

When the switch is in the "off" or "down" position everything is normal. When you kick it to the "on" position you'll get killer gain sound! You will loose the EQ controls when the switch is on but when it's off you can use them. It's a really trick that Richie Hall turned me onto a while ago. I think Boogie or Dumble happened to do as well(?) It seems someone mentioned that a little while ago. Richie came across it be experimenting.

=== You could replace the 820ohm feedback resistor and replce it with a 47K or 100K. It will give you a more dynamic feel to the amp. The 820ohm gives you that nice Fender "spank." Most blues players love an amp that is dymanic.

=== EQ (tone stack) CHANGES

You can replace the 250pF cap with a 500pF. I think Steve Ahola likes a 1000pF cap here. I have been meaning to tr this value but I need to buy some of those caps! (ha, ha) ohhhh....also Steve's site has some mods for Fenders.

The 100K "slope resistor" (connected to the 250pF cap) can be changed. Anything between 100K to 33K. I like a 56K in Fenders but go with what sounds good to you.

I'm not sure if you have the .1uF/.047uF combination or the .1uF/.022uD combo. If you dig the Fender-vibe on the tone controls you can leave it alone. If you find there's a .047uF in there then often times a .022uF will smooth out the low-end nicely. I also favor a .022 in place of the .1 myself but that's just me.

=== Lot's of the Band Masters used a .1uF or a .05uF for the coupling caps that go from the Phase Inverter to the power tubes. I personally favor the .047's in this spot. The .1's can be a bit too muddy but it all depends on each amp.

Christ, that's enough for me!! (ha, ha) I am truily rambling on now. I need to get my first cup of coffee now!!!

Have fun and go with what sounds good to you!
Trace

2/24/2000 3:41 PM
Trace	I apologize for the spelling! Man I think I'm still asleep (ha, ha) I've tried the preview but it will not let me post after the corrections are made and when I click the "back button" I loose my written all together. Sorry Trace Tboy, you're doing an amazing job though!!!!

2/24/2000 6:50 PM
Brad	I may have to try a couple of these things, just to see what happens. Although mine has no real mismatch on the norm and trem sides, it IS a tad anemic, and could probably stand a little boost. Brad

2/25/2000 8:06 AM
Nils	Thanks Trace, I've saved your mods to my disc. Nils

2/25/2000 4:49 PM

Trace

quote:
"I've saved your mods to my disc."

I hope they helped someone in some small way. That's what it's all about!

Most mods are pretty involved but the one Richie came up with is simple but sounds AMAZING!! Most people think a simple mod like that can't really change the tone all that much but it's a barn-burner! I highly recommend it.

Have fun!
Trace

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