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Regluing Black Tolex, anyone?

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8/29/1999 2:55 AM

Regluing Black Tolex, anyone?

Any recommendations for regluing black tolex that has peeled off? (I'd used old rubber cement for a temporary fix before and a black Sharpie© marker works great for touching up tears!) Plain old contact cement? Apply it to both surfaces and let it dry a bit? I get nervous using that stuff because if you start off crooked you can't just slide it over a bit...

Thanks!

Steve Ahola

8/29/1999 11:52 AM
Liam	Steve, I know the lack of repositioning is a problem, but I can't find anything other than contact adhesive that works well. I normally apply to bot surfaces and let it dry off almost completely. Try to paint it as far back into the gap as possible if you're repairing a peel. Don't be nervous, be positive! You can always rip it off and start again. Liam

8/29/1999 7:37 PM

To Liam, Mark, Mike and Lee:

Thanks for the tips! I guess I'll go with the contact cement after all. BTW does anybody know how Fender, et al would do entire cabinets with tolex? (My guess is something like white glue, with staples to hold it in place until the glue dried.)

Steve Ahola

P.S. So the black super glue is like cyanacryli... (you know, Krazy Glue©!) only black? It might be handy reapiring small cracks in guitars, too.

8/29/1999 10:35 PM

They used to use hide glue but I'll bet they use some kind of spray on contact cement now.

BTW - I would advise against using staples to hold it in place while the glue dries; you'll just end up with a lot of bubbles and gaps. I use a couple pieces of plywood or scrap lumber, depending on the size and shape, and then plenty of weight spread evenly. The plates from a weight set work great (a couple of 5 or 10 lb. plates work well for most stuff; 2.5 lb plates for smaller areas), but books will do in a pinch. The trick is to wait until the cement is good and tacky before applying it, and then make sure to stretch and smooth is out very well before adding the books. After it dries you can sometimes put down any bubbles you missed (the cement underneath is still very tacky) or use a pin to prick the bubbles and get the air out. However I've done whole cabs with a single bubble just by working slowly on one side at a time and making sure to keep it weighted down while it set (I usually do one side of a cab per night).

The final step is to use some staples along the edges to provide some extra protection against it peeling up if something rubs against the edge.

MJ

8/29/1999 12:19 PM
Mark	Steve, I reglued a Marshall combo and two Fender combos about six months ago. All the edges were rolling up. I used the lowly Elmers glue(maybe wood glue) and they are still holding up fine. Mark

8/29/1999 1:16 PM
Mike Malott	If its a large piece of Tolex, I'd suggest using Larry Rodger's Ultimate Amp Glue. It's a water based contact cement that works great! Visit his website http//home.onestop.net/rodgersamp/. If you are dealing with small peeling areas or loose mitered corners of black Tolex, try black superglue from Stewart McDonald. This is my favorite repair trick. www.stewmac.com. Mike Malott

8/29/1999 3:30 PM
Lee	I've always used contact cement and it sticks great to the wood. It doesn't stick so great to the tolex where the top overlaps the sides. I may try a butt seam on my next cab but I'm always afraid the seam will separate and I'll have a gap.

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