Deluxe Reverb Cabinet Construction Method

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8/12/1999 6:10 PM

FuzzFace

Deluxe Reverb Cabinet Construction Method Hi...     I'm planning to build Deluxe Reverb clone     first... cabinet..     I don't know nothing about it..     I just know dimension.         Finger Joint are only way to give good sound?     in here it's very hard to make.     any other method ?         How to install baffle bord to cabinet?     I heard it needs wood rail..     I think it must be placed front of baffle board     right?     then.. how can I install wood rail and baffle board?     use screw? or glue? or both?         I need your help...     sorry about my poor english..     thanks.. bye

 

8/15/1999 10:54 PM

MJ Harnish

First suggestion: Build the amp first, then the cabinet. Otherwise you'll be stuck trying to find a chassis to fit your cabinet which is much harder than building a cabinet to fit your chassis.         Second suggestion: Unless you've got some woodworking experience, find someone to build the cabinet for you (or at least someone to help). It's going to take quite a few tools and know-how to do a good job, and in the end you'd end up spending a lot more for the proper tools. You'll also find it pretty hard to build a decent looking cabinet unless you have someone show you how; my first attempt at building a head cab yielded a rather crooked box... Tolex can find some mistakes but not everything.         MJ

 

8/17/1999 5:41 PM

Steve Jones

Also recommend finding one and examining it for construction details. Maybe a friend has one, or a music store or pawn shop? You can tell a lot about how it is made from poking your head in the back of one and looking around. Take notes and make a drawing.         Every once in a rare while, there is an amp-less cabinet for sale on Ebay. Might be worth monitoring Ebay for a couple months every few days and see if one pops up. Search for "fender cabinet". Course, then you'll have to find a chassis to fit it.         MJ's comment should be well taken. It is easier to build a cabinet to fit a chassis than find a chassis to fit a cabinet.         Steve

 

8/20/1999 11:01 AM

jeff

for abot 30 dollars i purchased a Dovetail Template     rig from Sears that when combined with a hand held     router yields excellent pro-looking dovetail joints     even when I (who can barely cut a straight line)use     them .. course a router is another 50-125 bucks ..     so purchasing a already pro-made cabinet may be     a better solution .. i like the dovetail jointry method     because even without glue I can jump up and down on the     pine cabinet -- it is that strong ! g'luck

 

8/17/1999 11:44 PM

Andrew McWhirter

>I'm planning to build Deluxe Reverb clone     >first... cabinet..         Well, as others have pointed out, you're better off finding your chassis first. The rest of my post is my best shot at an exact replica of the Deluxe Reverb.         >I don't know nothing about it..     >I just know dimension.         Some of this is second hand so don't shoot me if it's wrong, but:     width = 24.5"     height = 17.5"     depth of bottom = 9.5"     depth at base of chassis = 8.5"     slope of chassis face = 25 degrees         The originals were made from 3/4" thick solid pine.         >Finger Joint are only way to give good sound?     >in here it's very hard to make.         I really don't think it make a difference to the sound. But it certainly makes an exceedingly strong cabinet.         >any other method ?         Butt joints? Problem is they are weak, unless you re-inforce them with a block, which will interfere with your chassis at the top.         >How to install baffle bord to cabinet?     >I heard it needs wood rail..     >I think it must be placed front of baffle board right?         No, the rails (made of 3/4" x 1" pine) are fitted behind the baffle. The wide surface of the rail is attached to the sides (they stick out 3/4"). I did that wrong on the cab I made (see pice below).         >then.. how can I install wood rail and baffle board?     >use screw? or glue? or both?         Screw the rails to the sides. Screw the baffle/grille assembly to the rails using screws from the inside. Obviously, you need to watch the screw length so it doesn't emerge from the front of the baffle.         The baffle itself is made from one sheet of birch(?) ply with a 1" wide border around it to hold the grille cloth off the ply face. The speaker is mounted 3/4" offset to the left. I believe the original baffles are quite thin - 1/4" - though I used 3/8" and the surround strip was 3/16".         Some web sources:     Here's a cabinet that I built for a friend (scroll down):     http://www.adelaide.net.au/~ndolling/deluxe.html         Look at the the Fender Amp field guide (never mind what it says about the cab width for black face. I'm 95% sure it's 24.5" for all DR's):     http://www.zen.org/~ware/ffg/ffg.html     You can get the schematic and layout diagrams here too.         Some great pics of a Rob Livesey's deluxe reverb:     http://www.ma.umist.ac.uk/rl/fender.html (scroll down and click on the thumbnails)     also some more pics on his site:     http://www.ma.umist.ac.uk/rl/fender.html/bfdr1.jpg     http://www.ma.umist.ac.uk/rl/fender.html/bfdr2.jpg     http://www.ma.umist.ac.uk/rl/fender.html/bfdr3.jpg         Some repro fender cabinets in the raw:     http://pages.prodigy.net/vibroclone/PriceLess/pics/amps/Clone1.jpg (you can see how the baffle mounts here)     http://pages.prodigy.net/vibroclone/PriceLess/pics/amps/Clone4.jpg (you can see the baffle edging here)     a super reverb cab in the same style (remember to do the RF screen):     http://pages.prodigy.net/vibroclone/PriceLess/projectblondsr.htm     vibroclone cab plans (including the dimension for the logo triangle):     http://pages.prodigy.net/vibroclone/PriceLess/pics/amps/clonecab.jpg         That should be just about everything you need, but mail me if I can help you further.         Cheers     Andrew

 

8/18/1999 10:06 AM
Andrew McWhirter	I wrote before:     >depth at base of chassis = 8.5"         I just cut one out this afternoon, and I would change this to     depth at top of chassis (underside of top panel) = 7 3/4"         Just gives a little more room.A

 

8/18/1999 3:50 PM

FuzzFace

Thanks Andrew and Steve...         I'll make cab first and make chassis     because I can't get chasssis that fit for guitar amp in here     I'll make chassis myself ( cut.. drill.. bend!)         okay...     1 screw rail to cab (wide side rail)     2 screw rail to back side of baffle/grill     right??         I think It will mount rail and baffle         but is it all???     I saw rail front of baffle board for picture     is it not necessary?     Must I this rail screw to baffle and cab?     or just to cab? or just to baffle?         I think its too stupid question...     but understand me...     and I'm sorry about my very poor english..     thanks..     bye

 

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