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ampage archive
Vintage threads from the first ten years
Re: begginer finger joints
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 8/10/2000 9:20 AM |
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rich |
Re: begginer finger joints thanks for the input. im doing a naturl uncovered cab so i figure dovetailing will look the coolest, although its not essential. i want them to have tight spaceing (like the mesa boogie ad where it shows hardwood cabs, if anyone can see that small). when the spacing is wide, it looks kind of wierd. maybe i should try and find another one, the $80 one on the same page might be better for tight spacing. maybe im getting myself in too deep and should have someone else do it or stick w/ the simple stuff. thanks! |
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| 8/10/2000 2:13 PM |
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| Peter S |
FWIW< I tried a 1/4" pin and tail and it looked way out of proportion, so I tried the 1/2" and it looks just right. Mighty fine BTW! Peter S |
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| 8/11/2000 5:34 AM |
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| Carlo |
Bruce,
So what kind of dovetail joint is this... Carlo | |
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| 8/11/2000 7:03 AM |
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| Bruce |
That would be a half blind dovetail. Excellent strong joint for the top because you can't really yank the top off when you snatch the amp up by the handle and you don't have to sand the top off to flush the dovetail. I notice you have some tube clipper schem that looks like it's from an old QST ham radio mag. What's up with that? Bruce |
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| 8/12/2000 4:45 AM |
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| Carlo |
Bruce -
This is my preferred method for cabinet joints. Then again, i don't have a whole lot of experience (10 or so cabs). I knew it was some sort of dovetail, but didn't know what it was called. I use a relatively inexpensive jig, (similar to the one posted in the beginning of this thread...i think), and a router. Cool thing is that this method only requires the one dovetail bit for the router. It's a bitch at first, but once i got the hang of it, it was much easier.
Pretty much...it's from an old ARRL book i got at a library book sale. It's a speech amplifier with a different style clipping circuit. i had been discussing it with some friends, so i posted it as a reference for the discussion. Shoulda figured kb0tj would notice it. Carlo | ||
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| 8/12/2000 4:47 PM |
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| JS |
>So what kind of dovetail joint is this... That is a half-blind dovetail. I prefer through dovetails, which *do* require two bits--unless you cut them by hand. I do this for a living, and haven't got time for that... I use a Keller dovetail setup for the rare DT's that I cut, and my own fingerjoint machine, for the bazillions of FJ's I do. |
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| 8/11/2000 8:32 AM |
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| Bruce |
Re: begginer finger joints/ picture Here's a quick peek at a low power small box head using the table saw to make a simple T&G drawer box joint. There are no screws, nails or cleats holding the sides to the lid and bottom. 
The joint is just a basic tongue and groove made on the table saw. I've done this with much larger boxes and then inserted a few 5/16" diameter fluted dowels through the sides to the lid or bottom joint to make it very strong. Here's a shot my prototype 4x10" (24"x 26"x 11") cab done that same way and it is very strong. 
Although I've been a woodworker for over 25 years, this still seems like a fairly easy joint for someone with a little experience, a decent table saw with a good sharp blade, a 5/16" dia drill bit, a drill motor and a handfull of fluted dowls. For homebrewing your own cabinets, cut the tongue about 5/16" thick and about a short 3/8" long and the grove the same size but a allow for glue to get in there. Above all else, get yourself a book about wood working and you'll probably see some on basic joinery using table saws, radial saws and routers too. Table saws are very dangerous and so are routers. Take your time, be very carefull and practice on a few scrap pieces and you'll figure this out. Bruce |
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