ampage
Tube Amps / Music Electronics
For current discussions, please visit Music Electronics Forum.

ampage archive

Vintage threads from the first ten years

Search for:  Mode:  

Re: Aluminum Chassis Question?


 :
7/22/2000 2:13 AM
steve m.
Re: Aluminum Chassis Question?
T.B.  
 
Do you have a surplus metal place anywhere near you? I bought a 3'x5'x 3/32" piece of scrap aluminum and a 3' x 5' x 1/4" sheet of aluminum for $10 each. They weren't pretty, lots of discoloration from being outside, but the price was right.  
 
Hope this helps,  
 
Steve
 
Today
ampage
archive
And now, a word from our sponsors:


 
7/23/2000 3:01 AM
Bruce

Man that is dirt cheap!!  
I can't get prices like that until I start buying the 250 piece orders.  
My gut feeling is that you misunderstood them about all welded up corners and spot welded folds, you didn't tell them exactly what you need and they don't really know what you want or need, or they don't know what they are talking about!! Ha ha ha.  
The cheapest I can get .080" thick all welded aluminum chassis for around here is about $40.00 to $58.00 each in minimum lots of 25 chassis.  
100 of the same chassis is just about $30.00 each.  
Yes, that is with all my holes punched in but the charge to punch holes when the sheet is still flat is less the 25 cents a hole.  
 
Personally, except for 5-15 watt amps, I wouldn't use anything less then .060 and I have all mine done in .080" Al min.  
 
Bruce
 
7/23/2000 1:30 PM
DavidB

Bruce,at the .080" thickness do the pots fit OK?I have a friend that works at a shop that uses a lazer cutter ,pretty cool stuff and fast.Haven't got a quote yet but he said the charge wounldn't be much.  
 
 
db
 
7/24/2000 4:43 AM
Bruce

.080" is OK for most all pots I can think of.  
The problem is the faceplate material.  
Recently, I switched to using .062" LEXAN faceplates.  
All my input jacks are insulated from the chassis so the thickness of the aluminum, the isolation washers and the thickness of the faceplate is paramount.  
So far, those dimensions are about as thick as I can go with out using the longer bushing jacks.  
 
Bob (DynaQ Amps) and I played around with all lazer cut, multi colored anodized faceplates and had a bunch of samples lazer etched with the graphics... very mixed results and we decided against it due to inconsistent texture matching and letter color.  
As far as lazer cutting, that's a different story.  
Right now I don't know if there is any cost savings but I've watched chasis being stamped out by the big machines and it is mind boggling how fast the same size holes are smacked out of the flat stock and then as the multi headed turret whirls around to do the other cuts that are preprogramed in the computer.  
I doubt any lazer machine can do it that fast and most of them have small tables to work from anyhow.  
 
Bruce
 
7/24/2000 3:52 PM
jrem

>>I doubt any lazer machine can do it that fast and most of them have small tables to work from anyhow.  
 
You're right about the speed, but for small lots of thin material the Laser is key. And a local shop has a Mitsubishi with two 4x10' tables, standard sheet. The best part is no tooling, i.e., just program and go. Great for one sheet, say 10-15 chassis . . . John.  
 
Hey, how do you guys change the font to italics when replying?
 
7/24/2000 5:50 PM
Eric H

like this:  
/
quote:
"Hey, how do you guys change the font to italics when replying?"
 
 
change forward-slash to backslash (and notice the quote is between curly-brackets, not parentheses)  
 
it comes out like this:  
quote:
"Hey, how do you guys change the font to italics when replying?  
"
 
 
-Eric
 
7/24/2000 6:08 PM
Bryan James

change forward-slash to backslash (and notice the quote is between curly-brackets, not parentheses)  
 
mmmm never tried that. i've always copied and pasted what i've wanted to quote and then use HTML markup < i > < /i > minus the spaces. it's also usefull if quoteing from more then one post
 

<<First Page<PrevPage 2 of 3 Next> Last Page>>