Tube Amps / Music Electronics
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|6/3/2000 1:44 AM|
||Screamtendo is one of them, Frank!!`|
I never got the Screamtendo into production yet, even after you were good enough to prototype it for me. It's my replacement for the old screamer layout. The Screamtendo will be one of the ones offered this way, based on the good reports I got back from the prototype testers.
Yes - I'm going to start grading the difficulty of the effects boards. The most current FF Fuzz layout is a good example of what I think you mean. The pads are about an eighth of an inch wide, the traces are about a sixteenth, and there's PLENTY of space. Black and Decker would be proud.
At the other end of the spectrum is the sucessor to the Neo-Vibe. It has everything I've ever learned about the Univibe in it - high impedance input, stereo outputs, and tremolo as well as the vibrato and "chorus" of the original. Also, I put in a single pot speed control to run the original LFO, with a trick. It's 0.062" pads on 0.10" centers, 0.015" traces, and all the resistors standing on end. Kind of a master's degree in assembly - so I haven't tried it yet
|6/3/2000 12:33 PM|
http://www.cl.ais.net/farcir/audio1.htm is a site where a large number of ready2solder boards are sold for designs in the amateur radio mags etc. Who knows, maybe these people wd be interested in adding RTS guitar stuff to their (large) range. The prices look OK to me. At any rate, it gives an indication of what one person thinks is worth doing. AS ham radio dwindles (hit by the net, also cheapness of commercially made rigs) I guess more home soldering is done by the music fraternity.
|6/3/2000 1:30 PM|
||Re: Any interest???|
What is your drilling method? Drilling boards is not the funnest part of DYI for me either, but it has become pretty natural and quick for me. For instance, I'll drill an average board, say the shaka, in about ten minutes with little fuss.
Here's a list of steps according to what I do:
1. Make sure you don't iron too long when making the PCB. Also, use as little printer toner as you can get away with (this takes some time and trial and error-- I just use the default toner set up now, with PNP Blue, anyway)
2. Use scotch tape and press it against all the pads and traces. When you pull the tape up, it picks off extra stuff from the toner paper, including the tiny circles in the center of pads. (Learned this from RG)
2. Etch and trim board, etc.
3. If you were able to etch the board so that the center of the pads were etched away then proceed to step 4. If not, use a punch and press firmly in the center of your pads (I find this adds about 5 to 10 minutes to the process). Experiment with centering the punch. I start with the tip planted laterally centered but with the tip slightly closer to me (so off center for and aft). I begin with the punch handle angled downward and apply some pressure while straightening it up to vertical. Then I give a final push downward. This happens very fast.
4. Drill BEFORE removing the toner transfer from the board. I just put the board on an old thick magazine or something (if I'm not in my shop), hold the board down with my fingers, and drill on a table outside.
When you are able to etch out a depression in the center of the pads, the height of the surrounding copper with the transer stuff works well as a guide for the drill bit, which saves time otherwise used with the punch. I use a Makita 12V chordless and secure the bit so that less than 1/4" of the bit protudes.
Yes, this is more work than buying a RTS board. But you save time by doing things in bulk. I typically iron and etch no less than five boards at a time. Sometimes I'll drill a bunch at a time as well. Then I just stick them in a air tight plastic bag and wait until I'm ready to pluck one out and make some music!
Hope at least some of this was useful...
|6/5/2000 12:38 AM|
I never really had a problem drilling holes. What I normally do is if it's a simply board that I can draw out with a dalo pen, then I'll use a scriber (metal working tool) to give a hole where to drill.
Then I'll etch the board, clean it up and then I use a small hand drill/engraver with a small drill. It's quite fast. After that, I'll give the board a protective coat of laquer.
However if I'm doing photo resistive boards, depending on how big the pads are (if they're big), then I'll just drill them. If they're small, I'll make sure I put a mark with a scriber so that I drill in the correct spot. Again, I clean the board up before drilling.
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