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Tube Distortion effect with real tubes??

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12/4/1999 8:06 AM

Tube Distortion effect with real tubes??

I was wondering if any one has built a distortion unit using tubes?

I have a number of 12AX7s kicking around, would these be suitable?

Is any one else interested in this type of endeavor?

I guess the drawbacks that haven't led to this being a common item are the power requirements. And perhaps what I'm thinking about is more like a pre-amp of some sort.

Also what kind of voltscurrent does a guitar or instruments in general put out, i.e, after the signal goes through the preamp I'd imagine that you'd have to step it back down to something reasonable to input into an amp.

I also have an extra reverb tank kicking around, would this be a suitable additionengineering problem?

I'd appreciate any ideas, info, schems, similiar endeavours.

Levi S.

12/4/1999 2:53 PM

Levi,
See Tubeworks or Chandler TubeDriver type stuff. That sounds like exactly what you are talking about. Hit some links that I'm sure will be popping up in this thread soon,(or explore the different posts already here), and I'm sure some of those have info for DIY tube overdrives. You did bring up an interesting thing that I haven't thought of. A combined Tube Overdrive/Tube-Driven Spring Reverb Tank. That would be perfect for any amp that lacks reverb, and may need to be played at a moderate volume or just to add a little "nasty". One unit to carry and plug in instead of two. And if done properly, I imagine it would sound very good. Anyone else know of such a unit?
Brad

12/5/1999 4:50 AM
R.G.	See the GEO list of schematics for two tube based distortion schematics. You'll find the Guyatone and the Westbury on line there.

12/5/1999 5:07 AM
Levi S	R.G., Have you built any of these? Or, rather do you know if these schems are correct? Just curious cause I've heard alot about bad schems. Levi

12/5/1999 2:29 PM

I traced the Guyatone, a fellow sent me the Westbury. I have not built either one. I believe my tracing is correct, and the Westbury seems to make electronic sense as I go through the schematic.

Errors in schematics and other technical data happen. One just has to know that they will happen and be prepared to deal with them. It's frustrating, maddening even, but realistic. In my circuit designing years at work, I learned to even question the accuracy of specifications on the data sheets provided on parts by the manufacturer. Bugs happen.

I think the most important thing about this whole process is not the production of a stompbox that does some particular sound (although that's very rewarding as well!) but rather the learning and understanding that comes along with the process of doing. Kind like the philosophy that the finished product is the garbage left over from the work, although that's a little harsh with such neat garbage.

The trick is to learn the skills to build and create, and also to understand the operation of the circuits. Even as a raw beginner, one can follow a schematic and ask questions where something doesn't make sense. The effects forum here is full of folks that will help with something that's not working quite right - and then you get to find out not only how the circuit was supposed to work, but how other people figured out what was wrong. The ability to figure out what's wrong is an even more valuable skill.

So - my philosophy is sure, there may be bugs; but don't let that stop you because it will certainly work better than not trying. Dig in. Go for it. Kind of like if you don't bet you *can't* win.

12/5/1999 5:27 AM
Levi S	R.G, I found the Westbury, but not the Guyatone. The Guyatone really peaks my curiosity as I have a Guyatone guitar. Am I daft or is the link right in front of my face? Levi

12/5/1999 7:59 PM

Levi,

I know some people have built (and liked) the Tube Driver from the schematic on AMZ. I don't know where the link is anymore though. Someone was raving about how great it is on this BB last year. Some suggestions for that schematic from Jack Orman where:

- leave out the zener diode since it doesn't do anything
- try a LM833 in place of the 4558
- use 12 volts instead of 9 volts for power.

I started putting together a PCB layout for that one, I'll try to finish it and post it soon.

JD

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