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Notes fretting out on my Strat

5/7/1999 11:23 AM
John s.	Notes fretting out on my Strat I own an older 71/4 radius Strat that was set up for Daddario XL 10-46 strings.Recently I put a set of DR Pure Blues 10-46 strings on the guitar instead to try the other strings.I needed to tighten up on the bridge to get it back straight again,but could the DR strings change the neck tension enough to allow notes to flat out while bending strings.Seems that notes flatten out more than before?I plan on putting the Daddarios back on before maybe doing another set up,but I wanted to find out what was going on with the neck.Thanks for any advice...JOHN.

5/7/1999 11:23 AM

John s.

Notes fretting out on my Strat

I own an older 71/4 radius Strat that was set up for Daddario XL 10-46 strings.Recently I put a set of DR Pure Blues 10-46 strings on the guitar instead to try the other strings.I needed to tighten up on the bridge to get it back straight again,but could the DR strings change the neck tension enough to allow notes to flat out while bending strings.Seems that notes flatten out more than before?I plan on putting the Daddarios back on before maybe doing another set up,but I wanted to find out what was going on with the neck.Thanks for any advice...JOHN.

5/7/1999 2:12 PM
Doc	I assume you're having problems without even trying to bend strings. Have you checked the curvature of the neck when your strings are tuned to pitch? The neck needs a slight relief to help prevent buzzing on the fret ahead of the one you're playing, on most guitars. On a Strat, I need about .010" at midspan, measured from the bottom surface of the string to the fret, with the straight string fretted at both ends (1st fret and 21st fret simultaneously). You sort of need three hands to do this, but placing a capo at the first fret leaves one hand to fret @21, and the other to check for an obvious gap between the string and 7th or 8th fret. Adjust the truss rod a little for proper curvature of the fretboard lengthwise surface. No gap, or gap too small will cause fret buzzing. Too large a gap will raise your action higher than you'll like and cause intonation problems. Notes will get sharper as you fret toward the bridge. Some manufacturer's strings are stiffer than others, and would require different tension to achieve pitch at the tuned length. As an aside, strings made of softer wire tend to feel easier to play, easier to bend farther, and keep stretching thus tend to have shorter overall lifespan. Strings made of stiffer wire take more tension to bring to pitch (bend your neck or pull up your bridge springs farther), seem to stay in tune longer, and are harder to bend. If a player's hands sweat a lot, corrosion failure might be the deciding factor on useful string life. Soft strings won't stay on the guitar long enough to stretch down, so in this case, one could always take advantage of easier playing effort required for softer strings. After the strings are tuned, relief ok, adjust the bridge saddles for a height that gives you about 1/16" (high E) to 3/32" (low E), unless you prefer a higher action, as measured between the underside of the strings and the top surface of the 12th fret (strings un-fretted!). Inner four saddles will be adjusted so their strings conform to the general fingerboard radius, and gap set progressively between the outer two extremes. String choice is a personal preference. I have a friend that works in a large chain music store, has access to many different strings, and choses DRs for his strats & teles. If you find strings you like to play, like their sound on your guitar, they hold up fairly well, then keep using them. My preference is by no means better than anyone else's, but I prefer to use Markleys. Since my hands are rather dry, I like to string a guitar and have it stay that way for a long time. I found that I don't get the consistency and longevity from D'Ds. Their plain strings are disappointing. I haven't personally experimented with DRs, but many players swear by them. Hope some of this helps you set up that strat.

5/7/1999 2:12 PM

Doc

I assume you're having problems without even trying to bend strings. Have you checked the curvature of the neck when your strings are tuned to pitch?

The neck needs a slight relief to help prevent buzzing on the fret ahead of the one you're playing, on most guitars. On a Strat, I need about .010" at midspan, measured from the bottom surface of the string to the fret, with the straight string fretted at both ends (1st fret and 21st fret simultaneously). You sort of need three hands to do this, but placing a capo at the first fret leaves one hand to fret @21, and the other to check for an obvious gap between the string and 7th or 8th fret.

Adjust the truss rod a little for proper curvature of the fretboard lengthwise surface. No gap, or gap too small will cause fret buzzing. Too large a gap will raise your action higher than you'll like and cause intonation problems. Notes will get sharper as you fret toward the bridge.

Some manufacturer's strings are stiffer than others, and would require different tension to achieve pitch at the tuned length. As an aside, strings made of softer wire tend to feel easier to play, easier to bend farther, and keep stretching thus tend to have shorter overall lifespan. Strings made of stiffer wire take more tension to bring to pitch (bend your neck or pull up your bridge springs farther), seem to stay in tune longer, and are harder to bend. If a player's hands sweat a lot, corrosion failure might be the deciding factor on useful string life. Soft strings won't stay on the guitar long enough to stretch down, so in this case, one could always take advantage of easier playing effort required for softer strings.

After the strings are tuned, relief ok, adjust the bridge saddles for a height that gives you about 1/16" (high E) to 3/32" (low E), unless you prefer a higher action, as measured between the underside of the strings and the top surface of the 12th fret (strings un-fretted!). Inner four saddles will be adjusted so their strings conform to the general fingerboard radius, and gap set progressively between the outer two extremes.

String choice is a personal preference. I have a friend that works in a large chain music store, has access to many different strings, and choses DRs for his strats & teles. If you find strings you like to play, like their sound on your guitar, they hold up fairly well, then keep using them. My preference is by no means better than anyone else's, but I prefer to use Markleys. Since my hands are rather dry, I like to string a guitar and have it stay that way for a long time. I found that I don't get the consistency and longevity from D'Ds. Their plain strings are disappointing. I haven't personally experimented with DRs, but many players swear by them.

Hope some of this helps you set up that strat.

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