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Re: The Technology of the Univibe

3/4/1998 12:10 PM
Greg Re: The Technology of the Univibe
Okay, I just recieved the Toner package from RG for the Univibe. I'd like to get anyone's input on things to be aware of as I piece it together. My main question is about the box size. What would be the minimum? I'm looking at the Hammond boxes and I'm wondering if I could get away w/ the 1590PI which is 6 x 3.24 x 1.81? Or should I just use the 1590D at 7.4 x 4.7 x 2.2? Any advice? Thanks!
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3/4/1998 4:12 PM
Just as a bit of history - There have been a couple of people who got the thing inside a Hammond 1590C, same size as the "Experience" pedal. That is a tight fit, not recommended, but it can be done. The board fills up the bottom of the box, the top is where the controls get mounted and the jacks sit in the middle. This is a lot like 3-D checkers to get it in there.  
The 1590D is an easy fit.  
I used one of Hammond's desktop consoles for my proto, Mouser number 546-1456FG4C-BU and 546-1456FG4P-WH (one of each); very pretty, easy fit, but about $32.  
I put one inside a Crybaby shell successfully by using a Dremel roto tool with the rotary file burr on it to remove the cast aluminum post in the middle of the board area and then mounting the vibe board on the metal bottom sheet. You'll have to work some to get a pot that will fit on the existing crybaby pot mounting, as this needs a deep sleeve on the pot. You might be able to thin the pot mounting lugs a bit with a flat file or a rotary file on the dremel and get a more standard pot in there.  
The Crybaby approach is a fair amount of metalwork, but it makes for a nice setup. By the way, the Crybaby mechanics makes a 100K dual audio taper pot work OK for the speed control, as the mechanics rotates it to fast for the toe-down position. This cleans up one of the problems with the speed control and needing a reverse-log pot.  
By the way - don't use a DC power jack that grounds the negative side of the incoming line to the box. Because of the FWB rectifier on the board, this produces big hum. Use an AC power jsck, which does not connect either line to the box; Mouser part number 163-4303 works well. If you use a DC wall wart to drive this, you can use a DC Jack, but don't connect the (-) to the second input to the FWB, just tie it to one of the ground pads on the board.  
If you want to use a line transformer inside the box (not recommended for safety reasons and the possibility of hum, but I've done it on one of mine) you can use the 41FJ200 - 18VAC@0.2A, about $4.29; the Mouser 553-F112X, 14VAC at 0.25A works as well, but it's about $10. I have also used the 41AC415 wall wart, 15VAC at 0.400A as well. It's $5.49. I recommend the wall wart.  
By the way, that toner package comes with email support like everything I have. Don't hesitate to ask.

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