ampage Tube Amps / Music Electronics	For current discussions, please visit Music Electronics Forum.

ampage archive

Vintage threads from the first ten years

my method (long)

5/1/1998 1:09 PM
Steve M.	my method (long) Paul & Doc: I've successfully made a few of my own pickguards using two routers, spacer blocks, templates and double sided tape. The first step is to make a spacer out of some material, I used 1/4" hardbord, that is slightly smaller than the pickguard template and attach it to the underside of the template using double sided tape. For templates, I use existing pickguards, but plan to make some out of 1/2" Plexiglas. The template/spacer is now attached to the top of the sheet to be routed. I usually clamp this to pine base. Using a plunge router with a 1/4" straight cutting bit and collar, I set the depth of the bit so that it just will cut through the bottom of the pickguard blank. I guide the base of the router with the collar up against the edge of the pickguard/spacer. When the pickguard is roughed out like this, there should be an 1/8" "flange" around the perimeter of the pickguard blank. I then chuck a pattern trimming bit (like in Stew-Mac's catalog) into the router in my home made router table and adjust the the heighth of the guide bearing on the bit so that it rides on the template's edge. This allows the blank to be cut to the exact dimensions of the pickguard/spacer. Now it is just a matter of feeding the blank into the material and making sure that the template rides along the bearing on the router bit. Using a router table is necessary as it keeps the edges square. The spacer is necessary as there is usually a 1/16" gap between the cutters and the guide bearing on the bit. It doesn't work so well when the template is attached directly to the pickguard blank. This is kind of a tedious process, so it might be better to make a template out of 1/2" plexiglas using the original pickguard/spacer method and then attach the plexiglas template directly to the blank. I've done this with various single coil and humbucker sized templates, but haven't made a whole pickguard template, yet. As far as beveling the pickguard, I've never actually done it, but Whit Allsop, who posts here a lot, suggested using a veneer trimming router bit. I plan to try this soon. One thing to keep in mind is that plexiglas is hard on router bits and dulls them quickly. Before I figured out this two step process, I tried just plunging the bit into the material, but got similar results as Doc. Hope this helps, Steve

5/1/1998 1:09 PM

Steve M.

my method (long)

Paul & Doc:

I've successfully made a few of my own pickguards using two routers, spacer blocks, templates and double sided tape.

The first step is to make a spacer out of some material, I used 1/4" hardbord, that is slightly smaller than the pickguard template and attach it to the underside of the template using double sided tape. For templates, I use existing pickguards, but plan to make some out of 1/2" Plexiglas. The template/spacer is now attached to the top of the sheet to be routed. I usually clamp this to pine base. Using a plunge router with a 1/4" straight cutting bit and collar, I set the depth of the bit so that it just will cut through the bottom of the pickguard blank. I guide the base of the router with the collar up against the edge of the pickguard/spacer. When the pickguard is roughed out like this, there should be an 1/8" "flange" around the perimeter of the pickguard blank.

I then chuck a pattern trimming bit (like in Stew-Mac's catalog) into the router in my home made router table and adjust the the heighth of the guide bearing on the bit so that it rides on the template's edge. This allows the blank to be cut to the exact dimensions of the pickguard/spacer. Now it is just a matter of feeding the blank into the material and making sure that the template rides along the bearing on the router bit. Using a router table is necessary as it keeps the edges square.

The spacer is necessary as there is usually a 1/16" gap between the cutters and the guide bearing on the bit. It doesn't work so well when the template is attached directly to the pickguard blank.

This is kind of a tedious process, so it might be better to make a template out of 1/2" plexiglas using the original pickguard/spacer method and then attach the plexiglas template directly to the blank. I've done this with various single coil and humbucker sized templates, but haven't made a whole pickguard template, yet.

As far as beveling the pickguard, I've never actually done it, but Whit Allsop, who posts here a lot, suggested using a veneer trimming router bit. I plan to try this soon.

One thing to keep in mind is that plexiglas is hard on router bits and dulls them quickly.

Before I figured out this two step process, I tried just plunging the bit into the material, but got similar results as Doc.

Hope this helps,

Steve

5/12/1998 3:16 AM
stephen delft	Re: my method (also long) Agreed that cutting pg's with a freehand router is unpredictable, hard to control and sometimes downright dangerous. A follower bit against a firmly clamped template is usually ok if you cut well outside the final line, then lightly trim down to the outline determined by the template. But even _with_ a template... cutting small pickup holes and small internal corners can go wrong unless the router is firmly controlled and only cutting lightly. One of the problems is that much modern pg material melts at a low temperature and is reluctant to cut cleanly at the best of times. As soon as a bit of the material sticks to a router cutter and starts to melt, you can have major problems. . I'm probably being a dinosaur here, but why don't you guys use a simple hand fretsaw frame and some fairly coarse jewellers' "piercing saw" blades. Any hand-jeweller or silversmith (or book) can show you how. Once you have the feel of the tool, and the right little support table under the sheet, , it will rip through PG sheet as quick as setting up a router. You do have to steer carefully. The trick is to keep the saw pointing forward, and turn the work. I even use a small piercing-saw frame and hardened blades for cutting the big square transformer holes in _steel chassies which are too thick for a nibbler. This does need a bit more practice and high quality blades with teeth matched to the metal thickness, and a bit of wax lubricant... but apart from a fine burr, it doesn't distort the metal, and it's quicker than drilling and filing. If these tiny blades will cut 1/32 mild steel, then plastic pg material is no problem - you just need what a jeweller would call a 'coarse' blade.. ...i.e.you can count the teeth without a magnifying glass If you are really good with the saw, you can cut almost to the line for one-offs and file smooth to shape. Or saw-cut a little oversize and do whatever final shaping method you prefer. I do a lot of one-offs, so I often have only a paper template to work from, but if it's a shape I like, I'll sometimes reverse the process and use the (still square- -edged) scratchplate and a follow-router to cut a plexiglass template for the next time. Cheers, Stephen

5/12/1998 3:16 AM

stephen delft

Re: my method (also long)

Agreed that cutting pg's with a freehand router is unpredictable, hard to control and sometimes downright dangerous. A follower bit against a firmly clamped template is usually ok if you cut well outside the final line, then lightly trim down to the outline determined by the template. But even _with_ a template... cutting small pickup holes and small internal corners can go wrong unless the router is firmly controlled and only cutting lightly.

One of the problems is that much modern pg material melts at a low temperature and is reluctant to cut cleanly at the best of times. As soon as a bit of the material sticks to a router cutter and starts to melt, you can have major problems. .

I'm probably being a dinosaur here, but why don't you guys use a simple hand fretsaw frame and some fairly coarse jewellers' "piercing saw" blades. Any hand-jeweller or silversmith (or book) can show you how. Once you have the feel of the tool, and the right little support table under the sheet, , it will rip through PG sheet as quick as setting up a router.
You do have to steer carefully. The trick is to keep the saw pointing forward, and turn the work.
I even use a small piercing-saw frame and hardened blades for cutting the big square transformer holes in _steel chassies which are too thick for a nibbler. This does need a bit more practice and high quality blades with teeth matched to the metal thickness, and a bit of wax lubricant... but apart from a fine burr, it doesn't distort the metal, and it's quicker than drilling and filing.

If these tiny blades will cut 1/32 mild steel, then plastic pg material is no problem - you just need what a jeweller would call a 'coarse' blade.. ...i.e.you can count the teeth without a magnifying glass :-)

If you are really good with the saw, you can cut almost to the line for one-offs and file smooth to shape. Or saw-cut a little oversize and do whatever final shaping method you prefer.

I do a lot of one-offs, so I often have only a paper template to work from, but if it's a shape I like, I'll sometimes reverse the process and use the (still square- -edged) scratchplate and a follow-router to cut a plexiglass template for the next time.
Cheers, Stephen

<<First Page

<Prev

Page 2 of 2