Tube Amps / Music Electronics
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|10/21/1997 7:00 PM|
How can I go about making a chassis?
Will a thin sheet of aluminum do? Probly
not, because thin aluminum couldn't
hold a transformer?
Any thoughts on chassis construction?
Or, do any of you know of a place to
buy a "pre-made" chassis?
|10/21/1997 7:31 PM|
I believe Mouser Electronics (see the "Suppliers" section of Ampage) sells Hammond brand aluminum and steel boxes. I know Antique Electronic Supply does.
|10/21/1997 8:28 PM|
See the mirror of Nate Stewart's Homebrew Tube amps here on Ampage. There are some pictures and a description of one way to DIY.
|10/23/1997 3:30 AM|
It may not be the finest thing in the world, but I learned it here, and it works for me.
Find your local metal supplier and get some U-Channel stock, about 2 by 3/4 by what ever thickness metal. I think the stuff I get is 2.25x.75x.087 (not too certain on the thickness).
This section will be the front, back and sides of the chassis. You can locate the corners and cut a bending line into the right location, also, cut a V notch in the 3/4inch part so you have no overlap when bent. I usually put the "seam" on one side that won't show. Bend this into a frame shape. Then it's a simple matter to put a plate on the top and bottom. I use .062 thick plate for the bottom, and .030 for the top. Sheet metal screw the top on, the rest I pop rivet together.
This makes a very strong enclosure. And BTW, you can get the U channel and plate out of all sorts of aluminum, get the softer stuff for the U channel, and the harder stuff for the plate.
|11/2/1997 6:29 PM|
Here's a little variation for your chassis. My brother-in-law owns a body shop and he gave me a tube of this new glue they use to attach quarter panels. It's stronger than a weld and won't ripple the steel. This stuff works great for putting the pieces together in this sort of chassis build. I can't remember the name of the stuff but you can get it at most places that carry a lot of auto body stuff, i.e pep boys, auto zone. Sure beats the pop rivet method. Real tidy too.
|11/3/1997 4:26 AM|
Quick someone... pour me a whiskey!
Seriously, the rivets are not a big deal, and insure a good metal to metal (shielded) connection. I even like to pop in a copper plate (.020) along with the bottom for a ground that can be soldered to. I leave the top accessable via sheet metal screws. There isn't much deformation in the metal either. The trick is to match the rivet to material. I use soft aluminum rivets, and they have a pretty low clenching force, hence low deformation.
Hey but... what ever works for you is just fine!
Thanks for the input.
|11/6/1997 9:11 PM|
This is serious stuff. Makes epoxy look like elmers school glue. The chassis is not going to come apart in your's or my lifetime. IMHO it makes for a cleaner looking box and you don't have to mess around with punching rivet holes. Like you said...whatever works.
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