Tube Amps / Music Electronics
|For current discussions, please visit Music Electronics Forum.||The sunn still shines online!|
|5/5/1997 3:18 PM|
||Fender Cabinet Restoration Questions|
Hey. Recently acquired a Vibrolux 2x10 cab from the 60's in vgc, except screws aren't holding in the front. Sides, bottom and top are finger jointed solid pine, but the front is press board (the stuff that screws tear up instead of holding into). Seems like fender scewed up because the back cover uses 28 screws (no problem because of the pine rail), but the front uses half as many screws, must support the weight of speakers and vibration, and screws don't hold. Even if they held, you'd probably get better sound with a good, solid mount.
Seems like more/longer/fatter screws (from the inside) would just be a bandaid and I would rather not remove the grill cloth or go thru the front with more screws (the cloth's in nice shape). Any ideas for a fix that would retain original outward appearance?
Also, there was a bunch of fiberglass batting stuffed (loose) inside. Looks like it was never attached. Does anyone know if this is original. Should I reuse it or leave it out?
|5/5/1997 6:30 PM|
This is only a suggestion, but it
would do no harm even if it doesn't
You might try using a syringe or
similar tool to inject carpenter's
glue into each screw hole and then
replacing each screw. When the glue
is dry you could give each screw
a quarter turn or so. The yellow
type wood glues are really pretty
strong and might keep the particle
board from flaking any further and
provide something hard for the screw to
Every stock Fender cabinet I've ever
opened up has had fiberglass batts
inside. I've read somewhere that the
purpose is to absorb midrange reflections
inside the cabinet that otherwise
would be coupled back out through
the speaker. Never tried an A/B comparo
to see what the actual effect is.
Good luck with the Vibrolux. SF
|5/6/1997 12:10 AM|
i had this problem,but it was way worse.From the inside it look like this thing was in a flood or something,the baffle was so swollen and flaky,it looked perfect from the outside though
one one side of the baffle the two screws lost their grip and the baffle could just be pulled and shifted out!
i ended up rebuilding the baffle with 1/2"plywood,i put back everything,including the original grillcloth and the wood frame on the baffle,and aluminum edges.it looks perfect now,is rock solid,and you can never tell its been done over.
from experience i can tell you its possible to remove the grillcloth and get it back on with no problem,once youre handy with a staple gun(oh yeah,it was the first time i ever used a staple gun)
|5/6/1997 12:23 AM|
That would be a Tremolux cabinet I believe.If the particle board is in good shape near the screw holes,maybe you could fill and re-drill.
|5/7/1997 12:39 AM|
> Recently acquired a Vibrolux 2x10 cab from
> the 60's in vgc...
> Seems like Fender scewed up because the
> back cover uses 28 screws
>Also, there was a bunch of fiberglass batting
> stuffed (loose) inside.
With 28 screws and batting inside, it certainly isn't anything to do with a Vibrolux!
|5/7/1997 3:46 PM|
Thanks for the ideas. The guy I got the cab from called it a vibrolux, but it probably was originally intended for a tremolux. I doubt if fender even made a vibrolux head and some old 2x10 cabs I've seen for sale on the web are referred to as tremolux cabs.
Yea, some of the holes in the press board are too
messed up for glue filling, but I might be able to drill them out to about 3/8" and epoxy in short pieces of hardwood dowell. If I cut the dowells off flush, this should give fresh wood to screw into. Might work.
|5/18/1997 12:01 AM|
To REALLY have a nice/ solid cabinet, a completely new baffle made of plywood, would be a DEFINATE upgrade. The cheesy pressboard that Fender used in these cabinets is their biggest shortcoming.
If your heart is "set" on keeping the cab as original as possible, go ahead and fill the stripped out screw holes, but NOT with just glue!
Only glue in the screw holes will be much to brittle and will self-destruct when you install the wood screws again. Either use a wood filler, or at least add a bunch of sawdust to the wood glue before patching up the holes. Then you should pre-drill holes of smaller size than the screws to allow for expansion when the screws are installed.
Another upgrade if you plan on using the original baffle is to apply tung oil(generously) to the pressboard. This will waterproof the wood as well as to prevent it from crumbling away from previous moisture damage. This works extremely well. Good Luck!....MAC/AMPS, Chicago.
|Page 1 of 1|