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Re: switches on speaker cabs


 
6/3/1999 8:08 PM
roger
Re: switches on speaker cabs
I've got a replica Vox 2x12" cab that I'm building that I would like to wire for either single input to both 12s or stereo, one input to each 12.  
 
I've devised a plan of using a 3PDT rotary switch to do the switching, but I wasn't sure if a garden variety rotary switch will handle speaker levels.  
 
Any advice? I could use a switching jack, but I can't seem to find switching jacks that are the long shaft type.
 
6/3/1999 8:26 PM
ken gilbert


I know those deep jacks aren't too cheap, BUT--  
 
You could avoid the rotary switch AND the switching jacks by just using 4 of the deep jacks. Then you could simply wire up a short jumper to be used to bridge the speakers together. An added benefit would be that other speakers are easily daisy-chained to your setup.  
 
One thing about the rotary switch--does it have a deep enough collet to make it through the cabinet too? It may turn out to be the same problem as with the switching jacks.  
 
You could go switching jacks too and mount a small aluminum/steel plate into a routed hole in the cabinet.  
 
OR finally, use TWO jacks and a SPST switch to bridge them together. If you wanted isolated grounds (probably a good idea) use a DPST (or DPDT if that's all you can find).  
 
That's all I got.  
 
~KG~
 
6/3/1999 8:29 PM
ken gilbert


quote:
"You could avoid the rotary switch AND the switching jacks by just using 4 of the deep jacks. Then you could simply wire up a short jumper to be used to bridge the speakers together. An added benefit would be that other speakers are easily daisy-chained to your setup."
 
 
Or you could actually get by with three, if you don't need to daisy-chain both channels (you probably wouldn't).  
 
~KG~
 
6/3/1999 8:38 PM
roger

thanks. I like the 4 jack plan, actually. I can get the deep jacks for about $2.25, so it's no big deal. I could mount the jumper jacks inside the cab (where the amp would be, were this to be a real AC-30, as I've got a panel that would be the brace that holds the amp chassis up in the cab that's perfect for such a thing.
 
6/4/1999 11:53 AM
Doc

If you use a terminal plate, or a molded speaker jack cup, you don't need long threaded shafts on jacks or controls. You can make your own plate from 16ga or thicker aluminum, or you can purchase a molded plastic fixture that's made for the purpose from many suppliers (MCM Electronics is one source that comes to mind).
 
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