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| Dion |
Brightening tweed deluxe (DIY amp) Hi, I want to make my homemade tweed deluxe (5E3 circuit, DIY amp)more brighter? It sounds too brown to me. Should I adjust the caps in the tone control? Or decrease the value of the coupling caps after the first stage? Can anyone help me? Thanks, Dion |
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| Bruce |
Hi Dion, First thing .... are you using a screen resistor on each of the 6V6's? If not stick about 500ohms in series with each screen lead to the sockets to help limit the screen current. Also see if this makes any difference in the drive and tone of the driver.... change the anode 56K resistor on the driver into a 57K5 resistor(56K + 1K5 = 57K5z). It should help balance the driver a little bit. I think a good thing to play around would be the coupling caps. Try .022. My old man ears really need about a 10:1 jump in cap values to hear a big difference! I hope yours are better. How about putting about 47pF silver mica cap across the top of the volunme control to the wiper like a bright switch on a BF Twin? Only solder it there. That should brighten it up a bit too. OK I just dug out a schematic for the Deluxe 5E3 and it looks like there IS a .02 cap on the 2nd preamp to the driver section. So....... I wonder if you tried replacing the typical 25uF cap on the common cathodes in the first preamp with a much smaller value like .5uF? Also on the 1st preamp section you could split the cathodes apart and run seperate 1K5 resistors on each half of the 12AY7 and have one with a 10uF to 25uF cap and the other with a .5uF cap. Try a hotter tube in the front end too like a Ruby 7025 STR or a good NOS 12AX7. Then drop the .1uF coupling caps to the tone / volume control to .022uF or so. This might be pushing the limits of stability so be prepared to insert a little series resistance ahead of the second preamp stage. I think I would also play around with the bypass cap on the second pramp stage too. Since it is a homebrew, did you build it with a seperate tone circuit for each channel? You could mess around a little with the tone circuit and mess with that 500pF cap ...larger? Post your results old man! Hope this was not a bunch of hot air! C U Bruce |
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| Dion |
Hi Bruce, Thank you for your reply. I just finished the amp just two weeks ago. I just blueprinted the 5E3 schematic. So there aren't any screen resistors. Ill will try it. i took 0.1% 56K resistors so I will add an 0.1% 1K5 resistor(I read in Weber's book that this would also help balance the driver). I already had the 22nF in mind (next to 47nF). I didn't have the time yet to get those (polypropylene). On my list was also the "bright-cap" after looking through my fender-schematics. I already used a mica cap for the 470pF cap in the tone control. They are hrad to get here in The Netherlands. It will take 2 to 3 weeks again to get 'm. I haven't tried changing the preamp. Oh well, there is already an Sovtek 12AX7 in it. After you mentioned the decoupling cap on the cathode I thougt to myself: Oh yes! I gives the lows and mids an extra boost. Lots of fun a DIY project. I'm thinking of designing a guitar-amp with transmitting tubes (high voltages! Over 1KV). I wasn't a bunch of hot air to me. I'm a student electronics. I think you have to wait a while for the results but I will post them. Thanks for the advice. Dion |
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| Bruce |
What kind of RF tubes are you considering? Someone told me they can be rather glassy sounding. I think thatis too broad of a statement to carry much weight. I have seen a few mentions here and there about using old sweep tubes in some type of simulated triode configuration. I have quite a few RF tubes myself. I saw an article not too long ago about using a pair of 4-400's in push pull. Yikes! I have a ton of these old 4X150 tetrodes that I have been threatening to use to. They are about 200 watts each at 2KV. I was thinking of using one in class A with reduced plate voltage and driving it with a low power pentode. It only takes about 1 to 2 watts on the grid of one of these tubes to drive it full output. Good luck with all... Bruce |
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| Dion |
I haven't really thought of what tubes to use . It's now merely an idea. With such projects I usually first start with where to get the transformers. Then the rest. Dion |
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| Niek |
Where to get parts in Holland Hi, being a Dutchman and hardcore solderhead too, I'd like to inform you where I did get my parts. For Transformers, tubes, high quality caps and pots you could contact FNS Tube Tech in Wageningen. This guy also builds custom transformers. I usually mail-order HV polystyrene caps/elcos and 1W/1% metal film resistors at Conrad in Rotterdam. They are relatively cheap. I'm sorry, but I can't give you any phone numbers at the moment, because I'm in South-Africa for my study (electrical engineering). Groeten, Niek |
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| James | Re: Brightening tweed deluxe (DIY amp) Try changing one of the coupling caps to 500pf. I'd try the triode without the tone circuit first to see if that helps. Which schematic did you copy? I have seen different schematics, some showing a .1 coupling cap on the driver tube pins 1 and 6 and others showing a .02. Play around with that one, although the first triode will give more controllable results. You might even try a pseudo "cut" control as found on AC30s. Let us know what you find. James |
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