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Vintage threads from the first ten years

previous: FredG Q's from a Tele virgin (long) - Steve A. take note ! -- 9/11/1999 2:34 AM

Answers from a Telephile (long)

9/23/1999 2:24 AM
whineowah phreek	Answers from a Telephile (long) 1) I LOVE this guitar - it plays like a Gibson, with cool Fender tone ! Really? Plays like a Gibson? Could you elaborate... 2) The neck pickup is too warm, the bridge pickup is too bright, the middle pickup is just right. Take a look at the pickups, if they're the ones I think they are then they're not outstandingly made, you might consider replacements. That is, if you're judging their tone by Tele standards, not Gibsons. However, I agree with the opinion that most Tele bridge pickups as a rule are pretty dark, made to perfectly balance the screaming bridge pickup in the "saddled" switch position. Steve's wiring harness looks like a fine idea, and there are any number of other tonal tweaks and switching options you have available. I have a strat neck PU in my JD Tele, and I absolutely love it. SD Antiquities are nice and vintage for bridge. 3) The bridge SUCKS - a TOTAL bite in the ass to set up - very loose and sloppy. Perhaps a little more complex than Gibson's, but you'll learn to love it. The quality of these Fender bridges can vary greatly, depending on their origin. Does it have 3-pc or 6-pc saddles? I like the 3-pc brass rods for max tone, but the intonation is hard to set if you use unwound G-strings. Sometimes it works if you actually bend the intonation screw to compensate (if you are willing to fail the first couple of tries and buy extra parts). Yeah, those damned allen screws like to rust and strip, you have to be careful. They may not fit your bridge, but I like the Graph Tech saddles--I have broken maybe 1 string in the last year I've had them on my former notorious string-breaker. Brass saddles are my next favorite. 4) The slotted tuning keys are a pain in the ass - I'm too used to Schaller/Klusons with the holes in them, I guess. Really? You don't like these? I love them. You aren't trying to string them the same way a "hole" post, are you? When restringing, pull the string taut, hold it with your left hand at the nut, pull it back (to bridge) 2-3 frets, and cut where it contacts the nut. The cut end slips neatly down the hole (in the center of the post), with no sharp loose end sticking out to poke you, and almost exactly 2-1/2 windings around the post. I go 3 frets for the D and I wind the entire G-string around the post, in order to even out the downward angle/pressure at the nut (some people say this causes tuning problems, I have no complaints). 5) The grommets in the back of the body fall out when you change strings. Common problem, Steve's probably right as to why it happens :-/ A small dot of super glue or epoxy will solve these worries.

9/23/1999 2:24 AM

whineowah phreek

Answers from a Telephile (long)

1) I LOVE this guitar - it plays like a Gibson, with cool Fender tone !

Really? Plays like a Gibson? Could you elaborate...

2) The neck pickup is too warm, the bridge pickup is too bright, the middle pickup is just right.

Take a look at the pickups, if they're the ones I think they are then they're not outstandingly made, you might consider replacements. That is, if you're judging their tone by Tele standards, not Gibsons. However, I agree with the opinion that most Tele bridge pickups as a rule are pretty dark, made to perfectly balance the screaming bridge pickup in the "saddled" switch position. Steve's wiring harness looks like a fine idea, and there are any number of other tonal tweaks and switching options you have available. I have a strat neck PU in my JD Tele, and I absolutely love it. SD Antiquities are nice and vintage for bridge.

3) The bridge SUCKS - a TOTAL bite in the ass to set up - very loose and sloppy.

Perhaps a little more complex than Gibson's, but you'll learn to love it. The quality of these Fender bridges can vary greatly, depending on their origin. Does it have 3-pc or 6-pc saddles? I like the 3-pc brass rods for max tone, but the intonation is hard to set if you use unwound G-strings. Sometimes it works if you actually bend the intonation screw to compensate (if you are willing to fail the first couple of tries and buy extra parts). Yeah, those damned allen screws like to rust and strip, you have to be careful.

They may not fit your bridge, but I like the Graph Tech saddles--I have broken maybe 1 string in the last year I've had them on my former notorious string-breaker. Brass saddles are my next favorite.

4) The slotted tuning keys are a pain in the ass - I'm too used to Schaller/Klusons with the holes in them, I guess.

Really? You don't like these? I love them. You aren't trying to string them the same way a "hole" post, are you? When restringing, pull the string taut, hold it with your left hand at the nut, pull it back (to bridge) 2-3 frets, and cut where it contacts the nut. The cut end slips neatly down the hole (in the center of the post), with no sharp loose end sticking out to poke you, and almost exactly 2-1/2 windings around the post. I go 3 frets for the D and I wind the entire G-string around the post, in order to even out the downward angle/pressure at the nut (some people say this causes tuning problems, I have no complaints).

5) The grommets in the back of the body fall out when you change strings.

Common problem, Steve's probably right as to why it happens :-/ A small dot of super glue or epoxy will solve these worries.

Replies:

anonymous GAAAHH, well anyone who was... -- 9/23/1999 2:31 AM
Fred G. Yes. "Plays like a Gibson" - this ... -- 9/23/1999 2:26 PM